The problem with “white papers” is they are just marketing for nerds.
The nerd market is underserved. People are buying bikes, riding them around happily, and not even bothering to argue about them on the internet anymore!
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Yea. That’s a huge tube. We spec’d that on a hardtail prototype that never went anywhere.
A lot of high end customers are very technical these days. Many are engineers or quantitative people. People spending $$$ either trust the highly touted engineering process (specialized) or they want to know what goes into the design. A lot of the demographic is the arcteryx and F1 crowd. Cue the American psycho business card scene lol
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Yeah but that was more in the era of normal cylindrical aluminum toobs.
I believe the rise of hydroforming and other shaping also contributed to the reduction in talking about tubing spec. You can’t really compare tubes based on diameter and wall thickness once manufacturers start shaping them more drastically, and including that kind of info would probably mislead consumers (or have them focus on the wrong thing) rather than help educate.
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Igor this front line info is always super neat to read about and interesting, thanks for posting it.
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The mass-market bike design has to consider a range of rider weights for each size when deciding material spec. If you’re pretty light for your height, I gotta think anything but small batch bikes is going to leave you underwhelmed.
I’d like to think I just care about the butt dyno feels, but aesthetic for big dollar bikes can’t be ignored. For me, it’s the non-taper 44mm head tube up against much smaller DT and TT…it just looks like a concession. I’d put up with it on the straggler price point, but if I’m putting out close to 2 bongs for a frameset…no so much.
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Wrong thread I know but since we’re talking rider weight/tubing spec might as well post here.
My frame builder is going to start building my replacement frame in December. I want it to be my only drop bar bike…probably 70/30 gravel/pavement but I want it to be fun to ride occasional all pavement centuries too. I’m 185lbs when I’m in shape but definitely closer to 200lbs these days. I originally specked:
31.75x0.8/0.5/0.8 downtube
28.6X.8/.51.8 top tube
28.6x0.8/0.55 seat tube.
In my head it’s what I want but now I’m wondering if it’ll be too wiggly? Should I go for a stouter tube set?
That’s similar to a Night Moves front triangle. It’s pretty wiggly in a crit or surging on a group ride. But outside of those edge cases it’s great.
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How does Nightmoves feel on gravel? Granted I’ll have a lot more tire clearance.
That’s like a plain old modern steel bike
What’s the fork ac, intended tire size (s) and chainstay length
Might as well post the geometry
Tapered HT or beercan?
It will be fine unless you’re capable of doing MAX WATTS, then it might start to plane under you. For reference, my travel bike (31.7/28.6/28.6 as well) has 7/5/7 TT & DT, 8/6 ST, puberty has blown me up to about 210 pounds, and I don’t notice any planing even at (my pitiful excuse for) MAX WATTS.
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Cool my watts are not max. I’d say they’re pretty mid.
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secan knockoff with some odd details and tubing is also where I’m pipedreaming
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That’s exactly what i would spec, too.
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Biggest tires I’ve ever run are 33s. So it feels like a bike on gravel with 33s. Haha. I’ve never actually taken it underbiking. Might have too Saturday because I’ve been neglecting some stuff on the coffee grinder to the point I might not have time to get it ride ready. I’m hoping to motivate myself to take care of business before then though.
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low BB, high trail, assumed 700x35+ tires. I wouldn’t use anything smaller if you plan on riding around corners fast or using anything but road pedals.
What headset has a 8mm height?
At 200lbs and OS 8-5-8 that bike will be fine. Won’t make it feel like you’re climbing fast, might feel good on descents.
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Oh it should be 12mm…I don’t have a device that will load bikecad so I’m using a web based thing that kinda sucks. But that drawing is basically it except a 3° top tube slope.
Not planning on running any tires under 40mm.
DT getting in the dynamo game with SP:
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“ * 24-hole drilling then for straight-pull spokes only”
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