New & Interesting Bike Campenaerts

don’t disagree that it has some slightly bad “engineering mouthfeel” but I’ve similarly never had issues with the Nitto stuff. Seems like one of the better solutions out there, short of getting a custom rack with fixed struts.

That said, a key feature of the Nitto hardware is that the little spacer A) cups the strut, and B) has some deep knurling on the back, meaning that when it’s all clamped up the strut is not free to rotate at all about the bolt axis, which probably really helps keep the nut from loosening:

I don’t see anything like that on Tanaka’s cloned hardware:

Prooobably doesn’t matter? Like if the thing is loose enough for the hardware to be rotating in the hole a little bit as the rack bounces, the strut is probably already sliding…

ehhhhh i’ve always just used zipties or hose clamps and have never really had an issue?

ya - on at least two occasions I’ve tried to buy stuff from them, a week+ later an apologetic “uhhhhhh turns out we don’t have that in stock and don’t plan to restock this year” email + refund has shown up in my inbox, so similarly largely gave up buying directly from the Soma/Merry Sales webstore.

it’s a knockoff of this from 3 years ago
RatKing Frames on Instagram: "The RIP Rack is not only an elegant platform. It is the foundation of a very small ecosystem. No more zip ties! 📷 @reglihttam #riprack #ratkingframes"

speaking of the RIP Rack, IMHO it has one of the more thoughtfully designed sets of mounting hardware out for this style of rack. Really like it. Someone told me they didn’t like how they legs look, but I think they’re cute.

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I’ve been salty ever since Jim and crew gave me wrong specs on the stupid IRD Vortex crank I’m finally getting around to replacing 2 years later. Wrong chainline, wrong q factor, offset pedals because it’s really made for 73mm BB even though it “works” with 68mm. Seems they have discontinued it.

The 12 speed GRX pull is the same as the 11 and shifts into a 51 i think ?

The next big thing…

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I tried the ‘extended GRX’ thing as described on Bikepacking (and Tarck alumni tehschott in the comments) and it didn’t work for me. The range was good, but the middle gave me inconsistent shifting in a few gears, so it was too unstable.

I have the S-Ride 11-speed derailleur that folks like Russ have tested. I’m gonna throw that on if I tour - the current GRX 11-34 is enough for how I’m riding it around here.

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This has been my experience too. We’ve tried the simple “tail hook” types as well as the more refined WT b-link replacements and they all “work” OK but not nearly as well as with things set to spec. 11-36 works fine but 11-40 seems to be where things just get fussy. We’ve had some people call it “good enough” and run it though.

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My buddy has been using 11-40 GRX 11 speed in 2x on both his Cheribum and Gryphon from day 1 and they have been mint. Could be they have longer than normal drop-outs. Not sure. Edit. No added THL’s. Edit, the Gryphon has an XTR 2x crank.

Huh, I like steel frames (æsthetic and ride feel) but they seem to be getting much heavier in recent years. 5.5lb+ for a frame seems really pushing it

Seems taboo to ask manufacturers about it too, it’s almost like “be grateful it doesn’t ride like a noodle”

As framesets are being applied to more and more offroady things, they have tougher requirements. And often the solution is, make the tube thicker. Which is not the inccorrect answer. Also, as more plates (yokes or whatever) are making their way onto the bike, those are heavier than tubes. So thicker, bigger tubes, bigger clearances makes things longer, plates, long forks. It aaaaallllll adds up. Or you can not test things, :see_no_evil:, and warranty when they break. I suspect there are a few niche production companies that do that.

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I don’t know for certain, but I wonder if that’s an artifact of disc brakes & gravel®©™ bike design? The castings for disc brake mountpoints are beefy, tubing for disc forks as well, and gaspipe seems to be the favo(u)red thickness for anything that might touch an unimproved surface

No doubt. Whats heavier, a little rim brake qr dropout or a TA flat mount all-in-one thing? Like i said, it’s a sum of all things. Or you could use really fancy, super thin wall tubing which would be prohibitively expensive for a lot of people and dent prone.

but the only companies doing FEA to optimise frames are making monocoque cabron right? outside of boutique framebuilding where people are doing 3D printed yokes and stuff

My 92 s-works commuter is built on a sub 4# frame

Banshee’s doing it with ALU and it’s still heavy, but they are definitely a ‘we huck to flat’ kinda builder.

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My theory is that folks are less interested in light steel these days. So the big companies are mostly interested in building surlys that don’t break.

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So, in a desperate attempt to keep riding the Banshee on flat/mellow terrain and long distance, I got one of these that lets you add setback (or set-forward) to a dropper post.

Ride report - it works, it doesn’t creak (at least at first), and it would be great - if the additional 23mm of reach didn’t juuuuust push me into territory where my lower back is stressed as much as my hands used to be.

Not gonna try alt bars with 30º sweep to try a ‘Sklar fit’ kinda thing, just gonna swap everything onto the rigid and do the upright ATB thing for a while.

I thought the increase in steel frame weight was due to testing requirements that didn’t used to exist? Especially on the fork.

I don’t know when fork testing first started. We’ve always done it. We use FEA on a lot of our handlebars and frames but it doesn’t find everything. A lot is down to experience and oftentimes common sense. Carbon is a totally different world for testing, investment, sustainability, safety, and insurance and one I am not keen to enter.

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