it’s old.
not many braze-ons at all.
gotta decide what to tell her to get.
i’m thinking spacing might be 120mm, it just arrived, i’ll open the box after lunch maybe.
has vertical dropouts. double eyelets.
so it’s gonna get fenders and atleast a rear rack. probably honjo fenders, maybe tubus rack. not sure on that.
brakes are already taken care of…mafac.
i gotta build wheelset and decide if i tell her to get integrated brake shifters or barend shifters.
the hubs i have to work with are some 32hole shimano 600 (i think 7speed), also a 32hole 8 speed shimano 600 rear wheel.
how does component integration (cassettes and shifters) work with the shimano stuff with the older thangs?
will i have to find old shifters or can a new cassette go on these old hubs? then can i use new shifters?
or i could get a pretty cheap shimano hubset from ribble and get 36hole.
trying to keep the cost down. we already got saddle and bars and maybe a stem.
gotta get cranks too, maybe triple, she don’t shift much on the FD so i was thinking maybe a compact set, perhaps 34/48 so she can climb if she needs and ride around in the big ring. i guess i could go old school and do barends with 7 speed in the rear.
this is mainly for a townie type thing to commute to school in all weather. perhaps some bike camping stuff on occasion.
Shimano 8 speed freehubs take 8 or 9 or 10s cassettes, or 7 with a spacer. 8 speed bar-ends are probably cheapest (7 speed is not available new.) 8, 9, 10 won’t fit on a 7speed freehub. I’d go 8 or 9.
I’ve 8s bar-ends I can sell you. I’d advise not buying crankarms without the chainrings you want. I spent more on chainrings than the DA crankset that I put on the girl bike. +1 on the 8s hub taking 9s cassettes.
well the frame is spaced at 120mm.
i’m gonna have to cold set it, to be sure it’s safe i asked some advice and got a reply. let me show you it.
[quote]There’s no problem cold setting the rear on a steel frame. Be aware that it actually cold sets very easily – many people heave at a frame and end up with 150 mm spacing before they know it, so do it very gently at first. Just use your hands – no tools required.
When you’ve gotten the right spacing, run a piece of string through the dropouts (or fender eyelets or whatever you have that’s symmetrical on both stay ends and around the head tube. Tighten the string and measure the distance from the side of the seat tube to the string at the nearest point. If everything is aligned properly, they should be the same measurement. I’d do this before spreading the stays because if your frame is bent or out of alignment, you want to know before you cold set the stays.
If you have to fix something out of alignment, put the frame on its side on the edge of a table with the bottom bracket sitting on the table along with the head tube and the stays hanging off the edge. Then with one person holding the head tube down, push just on one stay or the other to adjust alignment. Again, not much pressure is needed. Or at that point take it to a framebuilder who can do it on his alignment table. I’ve cold-set many frames and this is basically how framebuilders do it too – just dont overdo it.[/quote]
oh yeah. i’ve seen a post where the guy said he had to cold set a really stiff sprint frame and couldn’t do it by hand, so he went out to his car and grabbed the tire jack. used that to spread the stays.
[quote="(|)"]well the frame is spaced at 120mm.
i’m gonna have to cold set it, to be sure it’s safe i asked some advice and got a reply. let me show you it.
[quote]There’s no problem cold setting the rear on a ***** *****. Be aware that it actually cold sets very easily – many people heave at a ***** and end up with *** mm spacing before they know it, so do it very gently at first. Just use your hands – no tools required.
When you’ve gotten the right spacing, run a piece of string through the ***** (or *****s or whatever you have that’s *********. I’d do this before spreading the ****s because if your ***** is bent or out of alignment, you want to know before you cold set the ****s.
If you have to fix something out of alignment, put the ***** on its side on the edge of a table with the bottom ***** sitting on the table along with the ***** and the *s hanging off the edge. Then with one person holding the ***** down, push just on one **** or the other to adjust alignment. Again, not much pressure is needed. Or at that point take it to a framebuilder who can do it on his alignment table. I’ve cold-set many frames and this is basically how fers do it too – just dont overdo it.[/quote][/quote]
Honjos are nice fenders but you can cut some cash with the velo orange version. Also, if you dont take halbrit up on those barends, I’d like to get my hands on em.
