To you mountain bike fellows

I have long been contemplating picking up a mountain bike to do some trail riding and just general messing around on. I havent been on a mountain bike since I was in grade school, and I had a blast at the time but my attention got snatched by bmx dirt jumping.
Now, in looking around I’m trying to spend not a whole lot just to see if it’s something I want to pursue further. I scoped some BD bikes, and I was wondering how people feel about this one:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/win ... ff4500.htm

any other suggestions in a similar price range? what is wrong with this bike (if anything)? haha, fill me in.

I’m not stoked on mechanical discs.

i’m sure that’s a good deal as pretty much everything from bd is a sweet deal. but, i haven’t really researched mountain bikes much compared to my knowledge of road and track bikes. personally i am loving my rigid 29r ss - last years gt peace 9r for $450 from lbs. performance still has last years peace 9r in small/large and this years peace 26" ss in stock last i checked - just wait for a 20% off coupon. of course my bike is also 28 lbs on the downside… but i love my 29x2.3 tires - they are huge. and my hands/wrists/forearms are adjusting to the abuse taken by the rigid fork.

could you explain performance difference between mechanicle and hydraulic discs?
Also, as this is just a bike to check out the sport, coule I not upgrade the brakes at a later date if I decided I wanted hydraulic discs?

mech discs use cables, hydro discs use fluid and pressure to actuate the pads.
mech. is better i’d say cause they’re easier to deal w/ and you don’t have to use caustic brake fluid.
you can also use more kinds of levers.

nashbar has the gt ruckus single speed for 450 and a 20% discount right now. i’m not sure of the difference between the except the rigid fork v. rockshox fork.

I don’t know what you think a Rgid SS 29er but I’ve had my eye on this for long time http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mot … t29_08.htm

I have mech disks and i have test rode a bike with hydro disks. Both can stop on a dime when well ajusted.

I’m with bward1028 , go with mech’s there easier to deal with.

Yo, Tallbike! Stay the fuck away from that Motobecane! My cousin’s had one for about a month and It’s been nothing but trouble. When we opened the box and went to assemble it, the rear wheel was already mounted with a DS chaintensioner that was cranked so hard that the tips of the forkend had deformed slightly. Also, the drive side nut (not track nuts, but hardwarestore style with washers) was cranked on so tight that I had to put a cheater bar on a ten inch wrench to get the damn thing off! When I finally did get the nuts off I found that the ALU around the axle had deformed so that it took a hurculean effort to get the wheel out and a file to make it go back in smoothly.

Also, the rims it came with are not machiened for brakes and squeel horribly when you brake.

Also, yesterday the axel in the rear hub started to wobble and I didn’t have the tool to remove the freewheel and service the hub so I told him to take it to the LBS. They took it apart and it became apparent that the BB was fucked and needed to be replaced.

That Motobecane is a fucking disaster!!! There’s a reason it’s dirt cheep! Avoid it like the fucking plague!

[quote=“frankstoneline”]Now, in looking around I’m trying to spend not a whole lot just to see if it’s something I want to pursue further. I scoped some BD bikes, and I was wondering how people feel about this one:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/win ... ff4500.htm

[/quote]

Looks fine for getting your feet wet in mountain biking, but if you get serious about the sport, you will “outgrow” this bike pretty fast. All of the components are useful and they work, but won’t stand up to any sort of serious abuse.

Also the fact that it’s a hardtail might rattle your back if it’s at all weak (like mine is). A full suspension bike is going to be way more plush, but you’ll need to drop at least $200 to $300 more to get into the bottom rung of that market.

My friend bought a full suspension Iron Horse a few years ago for around $600 that is actually quite an impressive bike for the money.

Anyhow, good luck!

I’d rather go rigid then go with a low end rockshox.

Mechs are fine. I use them on my full suspension AM rig.

That stem is whack.

Alright, I’ll chime in. I’ve had six mountain bikes in the last two years. It’s where my roots and primary bike knowledge lie. I only mention this to show that I’m not basing the below opinions on theory or bragging, but on my experience going through exactly what you went through and then getting absolutely hooked. Now I roll around on a few highend, boutique bikes after paying for my poor purchasing decisions earlier on.

If you are on a budget and looking for a first time mountain bike, buy used. There’s no doubt about that. You will get far more bang for your buck buying someone else’s good, year-old bike with good components than a cheap, new bike with crappy components. Mountain bike component’s quality of function, feel, and durability tends to relate directly to the price. In other words, unlike some track bike components, you aren’t usually buying bling or peer acceptance with highend mountain components, you are buying performance.

Secondly, buying used will allow you to establish a baseline for what you ride, how you ride, and what geometry you want to see on your next bike. Why make your baseline for comparison with a bottom end bike when your next bike will almost certainly be an upgrade. To say it differently, if your first bike and second bike are along the same plane in terms of quality of build, your focus can be on changing/upgrading only the points that need to be changed (geometry, travel, size, components, etc.) rather than trying to revamp the entire bike because you hated the way your first one felt in general, not specific points. Does that make sense?

Thirdly, if you buy something that feels good, light, and plush from the start, you are more likely to continue riding. However, if you buy a cheap, heavy(ier), clunky bike, there’s a good chance that you’ll hate it and have a $700 paper weight that happens to have two wheels. I only mention this because I’ve seen it before. Riders get burnt out always replacing cheap, fragile components, dealing with fork and shock oil leaks, and constantly truing rims just to keep a poor performer on the trail.

At this point, my first step would be to go testride as many mountain bikes as you can. Ride everything regardless of the pricetag. Note what you liked about certain bikes and how they fit. Go home, look up the geometry and build of the specific bikes you liked. Establish a list of bikes that have similar fits, components, and geometry to those you liked. Then go out to the used marketplace (MTBR Classifieds, RideMonkey Classifieds, CraigsList, PinkBike Buy/Sell (last option)) and look for bikes on your list. It will take more time doing it this way, but if your budget is the driving force behind this purchase, you’ll be happy to have waited.

To answer the mechanical vs. hydraulic question, it really depends on what you ride and how you ride. Hydraulic have a lot more stopping power and modulation than mechanical brakes do. However, if you’re going to be chugging around on local trails for the fun of it, save your money and go mechanical. I’ll take a pair of good mechanical brakes over crappy hydraulic brakes any day. For mechanical, look into Avid’s BB5 and BB7 disc brakes. Avoid Hayes HFX series brakes for hydraulic. Scratch that, avoid Hayes all together… unless you like the feel of heavy on/off brakes.

I hope some of that helps. You are welcome to bounce bike options off here for review. I’d be happy to give insight into what specific bikes are going to feel like.

^^thanks to all you guys, glad to have some opinions.
I’ll look into some stuff and toss up any more questions. As far as bikes to test ride, any suggestions of where to start?

Well, what trails do you plan to ride? Are we talking buff and smooth or rocky and technical? Do you ride for the ascents or the descents? Will you be counting BPM or qualitatively measuring adrenaline levels? Hardtail or fully?

There’s a lot of bikes out there. The only thing I could recommend at this point would be whatever bike the thrown dart hits. Most beginners are drawn toward (I can’t believe I’m actually going to use this freaking designation) “All Mountain” bikes. Those bikes are also known as Enduro bikes, and my preferred designation, Trail Bikes. But “All Mountain” is the current industry buzzword and almost every manufacturer has released a bike that they claim is “All Mountain.” What you’ll find in your research is that many of these AM differ considerably because that classification is so broad. It really doesn’t do the customer any good because many folks buy a bike solely because of the designation.

For Colorado trails, Yeti 575’s, Specialized Enduros, and Santa Cruz Nomads are popular choices. I think all of them fall under the AM umbrella, but each of them are solid trail bikes for demanding terrain. However, none of them are cheap bikes from the entry level POV.

Well, what trails do you plan to ride? Are we talking buff and smooth or rocky and technical? Do you ride for the ascents or the descents? Will you be counting BPM or qualitatively measuring adrenaline levels? Hardtail or fully?

There’s a lot of bikes out there. The only thing I could recommend at this point would be whatever bike the thrown dart hits. Most beginners are drawn toward (I can’t believe I’m actually going to use this freaking designation) “All Mountain” bikes. Those bikes are also known as Enduro bikes, and my preferred designation, Trail Bikes. But “All Mountain” is the current industry buzzword and almost every manufacturer has released a bike that they claim is “All Mountain.” What you’ll find in your research is that many of these AM differ considerably because that classification is so broad. It really doesn’t do the customer any good because many folks buy a bike solely because of the designation.

For Colorado trails, Yeti 575’s, Specialized Enduros, and Santa Cruz Nomads are popular choices. I think all of them fall under the AM umbrella, but each of them are solid trail bikes for demanding terrain. However, none of them are cheap bikes from the entry level POV.[/quote]

I like the idea of the simplicity of a hardtail bike, and the trail riding I will be doing will probably be lots of sandish desert terrain (eastern washington) and probably some alpine ish stuff (roots and such). Not a whole lot of rocky stuff.

[quote=“bward1028”]mech discs use cables, hydro discs use fluid and pressure to actuate the pads.
mech. is better i’d say cause they’re easier to deal w/ and you don’t have to use caustic brake fluid.
you can also use more kinds of levers.[/quote]
Hydro also work a helluva lot better if you don’t get very entry level ones. I tend to get 2,000 or so miles out of my sets.