Just say “click” when you feel like yer at the right torque. Works every time.
But seriously, you might as well just get a mini fixed-torque bike tool, like this one from Topeak. It’ll weigh just as much and cost just as much as putting the mechanism in the clamp bolt, but now you can use it torque your stem bolts/handlebar bolts/whatever as well, instead of being stuck forever on your seat clamp.
Re torque. I hold the short end of the Allen key to tighten things. That lack of leverage and my wimpy salad leaf arms cannot overtorque things in this fashion typically.
There are load (not torque) indicating washers, given the right design around the seat clamp to accommodate this could work. No idea if they even exist in tiny tiny low load ways.
Also is this where we get into a discussion about how the torque and bolt tension relationship varies massively with small changes in friction from the threads and bolt/nut head interface? Like easily 2x.
I can’t find the link (maybe went out of business) but there used to be a fender vendor out of Portland that sold a bunch of different colored fenders for skinnier tires. They were notable because the fender stay at the blade was fixed but had threaded ends at the dropout side. Instead of R-clips they were female threaded so no cutting was required, just spin to change length.
I bet if I dug down in OldTarck Fender chat I could figure out the URL.
Those are pretty hot. You could powder coat any SS fender to match your frame. I’ve also considered hydro-dipping an aluminum set. Maybe with flaming skulls, wacky cabbage, and $$.
@Straws said something in some other thread about this that I can’t be bothered to find right now, but HY to @igor for braving tarck and sticking around and dishing it out.
And dammit if I haven’t been looking at a polyviolent for most of this year as a replacement for two other bikes.