Work great, no comments of substance. I guess they squeal a little more than the RS-785 calipers but considering I’m running them with partially worn shimano rotors I can’t hold it against them.
Went full bottle cage nerd:
Good luck with the doubled dt cages! Mine ripped clean out of the frame after about a month, the silver lining being that I got to learn how to rivnut a frame
Yikes. Anything unique or special about your particular setup?
Not to my knowledge.
I used a Wolftooth B-Rad bracket (3 bolt?) and Wolftooth doubler brackets.
I bumped them a bit a few times, but never enough to make me worry. I might have knocked them at some point without noticing, but I’d be surprised, I’m usually pretty careful with my bikes.
After about a month, I reached down to grab a bottle and the whole thing bent at an angle, and then one of the bottle cage bosses pulled out, taking the other one with it.
I think that the downtube of the bike is of normal wall thickness, probably 8-5-8 or 9-6-9.
I suspect that the leverage and angle at which the leverage is applied is not what bosses are really made to take? Could be fine on other bikes, who knows
Haven’t we seen that happen a good number of times?
I documented it on this forum when it happened a few months ago, I don’t know of any other failures besides the one on my bike.
Solution is to rivnut the bottom side of the dt directly across from your original bottle bosses and run a longer bolt through both. That way the torque is more to the tube and less to the edges of boss.
Well, shit. Time to put some cages on the fork.
This is smart as hell. I have a Dremel and a rivnut setter, I can make this happen. Double dt bottle cages are a solid idea, they just need a little help.
VT with the knowledge.
I’d probably not fully crimp that bottom riv nut until you know both sets of threads line up, which will probably be kind of a PITA
Good point, the rivnut setter can english it around a little bit before it takes the final setting squeeze. What if I dropped a bolt all the way through both holes and then tightened it with an external nut? Too much play inherent in that setup?
Get ready for my followup post in about a month: “my dt buckled mysteriously, is it fixable?”
Is it possible to braze in a tube that goes through the downtube, and then internally thread that? Kind of like this pierced seatstay bridge:
That’s how double sided low rider forks are done, braze in an internally threaded tube.
If you have two rivnuts, even if they’re perfectly aligned, there’s a possibility that the threads will be off pitch, so running a bolt through will ovalise the tube slightly (up to 1/2 the thread pitch) in the x or y axis. Upside is, you can’t crush the tube by over tightening the bolt (or nut on the backside) as the bolt will act as a compression member, unless you drill out one of the rivnuts, then you’re hosed.
Huh, yes, yessssss this looks like I would almost definitely mess this up and destroy the bike.
Alternate idea: add rivnuts to underside of downtube, just stick a third bottle cage under there.
I also want to rivnut some spots along the top tube for ventilated bolts so that I can run my rear taillight’s cabling internally.
Honestly, I spent like $40 on a rivnut setter, and am probably not qualified to have good ideas about how to use it.
Protip: Rivnuts are no good for dental implants
At this point, wouldn’t hose clamp type bosses give you the meat you seek with 1% of the planning and work?
Dude if I were doing this the easy way I’d just stick a Camelback bladder in my half framebag. I’ve backed myself into having some specialized tools and equipment and I may not be smart enough to avoid tinkering with them.
I mean yeah, literally any of the many commercially available and diy options for a m5 bolt attachment are better than whatever wildassed nonsense I wind up cooking up with a rivnut setter I like, 80% understand how to use
story of my life.