What did you do to your crosscheck today?

No, it didn’t. Just sputtered all the sealant out. To be fair I was running at ~70psi on road tires, not mtb. Back on tubes for now though. The front didn’t look like it would have sealed based on the state of the stuff inside. Maybe I just need to put a ton in there? I split a bottle between the front and rear.

Edit: After a day sitting out the leftover sealant in the front tire still is liquid. I don’t know much about tubeless, but shouldn’t it be firmed up?

A trick I learned from Fred for the Jones bars is to find the trekking brakes with the long levers (may need to order from Europe). You can still get two fingers on the brakes when holding the very end of the Jones bars this way!

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Also cleat under the ball of my foot crü. But in my case that means cleats all the way forward.

The Finish Line sealant does not work on porous tires - sup wife works at bike shop and they called the mfg because would not seal up Compass tires. Finish Line response: lol no. Porous tires will not fly.

Which begs the question, what fucking tires do they think will work? If they won’t seal micro punctures, what’s the point?

Dump that stuff and put in Orange sealant or Stans before you get a puncture somewhere truly inconvenient.

My compass tires have orange stains all over the sidewas from the orange seal aspirating out.

what did i do to my crosscheck today?
I put an whole new bike on it’s fork

cross check fork with the rest of voodoo maji attached.
New rizors for maximum dadbike and miniVs to have some change of stopping.

as an added bonus my “dangler” now matches the fork

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I just posted the above images as img tags from imgur, now they are on the tarck server?
did someone stealth edit my post or do all img tag’d images just get devoured by :tarckbear:

I’d ride that bike up to but no further than 11 miles at a time.

edit: all images are rehosted in case imgur/anyone else shits the bed.
WE ARE BEHOLDEN TO NO MAN/WOMAN

hah, just viewed edit history and saw “system” edit

Also: rode it ~20oppressiveKM (12.5 freedom miles) yesterday, but i did do it in two parts

PS, i’ll just direct upload images to tarck in future, especially now imgur is blocked at work as of today (was not last time i was in the office)

Is this one of those thinkin’ questions? If I keep replacing things on my cross check, when does it cease to be the same cross check?

Sweet cross check, btw.

It’s way worse than that. It’s like parthenogenesis. I now have a whole nother cross cheque:


Actually bought a second hand cross cheque frame, with slightly short steerer, to the opportunity to get all the braze ons (but not discs cos non disc dyno)

PS that’s the maiden voyage, lights not yet fitted

Slightly short steerer may be an understatement… Ah, i get it, seen photos above re fork swap. Still that is a serious spacerstack & riser stem combo.

Igor u would like to read about the Ship of Theseus.

No surly is complete without a surly-spacer-stackTM. (although I probably need to take 20mm off)

better hide that thing from rusty.

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It’s perfect.

Finally got around to trying to figure out why turning the cranks on the cargo bike was so unpleasant after it got way, way worse last week.

Ah, no-name bottom bracket spindle seems only partially connected to bearing assembly.

Put a new UN26 in there and now riding that bike doesn’t feel quite as miserable as it used to. Bb7s are still trash and the rotors are permafucked but I brake as little as possible so not as big of s deal.

Took it for a shakedown ride on the new tires. I went from 2.8" Nobby Nics F/R to 2.5" Minion DHF/Aggressor F/R after getting a little tired of the squirminess of 2.8s on hardpacked/loose-over-hard corners, which is a lot of what we’ve got out here.

There’s definitely a lot less straight line braking grip and it doesn’t have the same kind of tractor tire feeling when climbing, but thats good and bad.

I had forgotten how fucking good a tire the Minion is, though. The transition from the center tread to the side knobs is definitely less gradual than on the Schwalbes, so there’s definitely a point where you’re a little bit in between them, but the side knobs hold so well that you can really ride them and feel confident that you know where they’re gonna give out. It makes adjusting your line on a weird off-camber a lot more predictable.

The Aggressor seems cool too. It seemed to have great climbing and braking traction and never did anything unpredictable, which is all I really want in a rear tire. Something a little faster-rolling might be cool, but I’d probably have to give up some of that traction. I think I’m good.


I also gave up on trying to find some kind of small bag that would fit on my Ibis without being weird or jiggly and went full Enduro and taped a tube and tire lever to the frame. This works so well that I don’t know why I even bothered looking for a bag.

I am hemming and hawing over what to do to my mountain bike this winter and I am pretty sure I am going to bigger tires. Currently on 2.25 knobby nics. I was thinking 2.8 but your post is making me lean more toward 2.6 realm.

To be fair, I did go from what I’d consider to be a pretty middling tread pattern to probably the closest-we’ll-ever-get-to-consensus best front tire tread pattern ever (Minion DHF), so I’m not sure how much is the width and how much is just liking the tread pattern.

But yeah, my impression of a lot of 2.8s was that they are all a little too lightweight in the sidewall because all the manufacturers figured (probably not incorrectly) that once they crossed the 1kg mark, buyers who were on the fence about plus tires would get scared off. I think a sidewall that big and thin is just too squirmy.

When I wear these out or get tired of them, I probably want to try a 2.6, at least in the front.

The straight line braking traction on the 2.8s is fucking amazing though.