really doubting this[/quote]
Yeah, but he’s mostly right. I raced on DA road hubs/ Opros last year and had to repack them several times. BUT those were the fastest and strongest wheels i’ve ever owned. Remember the first time racing them after switching from my 22h bladed spokes and recognizing way more road vibration and cornering felt like rails.
built with the same specs I recommended.
really doubting this[/quote]
Go ahead, I road them on a commuter wheelset for 18 months. Each time there was a decent rain they would get crunchy as hell afterwards and water would come out when I took the lock nuts off. Hell even 500 miles of good weather riding would leave them feeling rough. I’ve never had the same problem with Superbe or Campy track hubs.
really doubting this[/quote]
Yeah, but he’s mostly right. I raced on DA road hubs/ Opros last year and repacked them several times, probably didn’t need to so often. BUT those were the fastest and strongest wheels i’ve ever owned. Remember the first time racing them after switching from my 22h bladed spokes and recognizing way more road vibration and cornering felt like rails.
built with the same specs I recommended.[/quote]
Yes, their road hubs have a double seal which the track hubs do not.
Yes, their road hubs have a double seal which the track hubs do not.[/quote]
Makes sense, I guess.
Are the seals from durachi road hubs adaptable to the track hubs? This seems like an ideal solution, if possible, for riding nice track hubs on the street. Someone should try this.
As for the original topic, unless you’re obese or doing loaded touring, you don’t need 36 spokes.
One thing to consider about DA track hubs 32 vs 36, 36 are NJS so solid axles and 32 are not NJS so they come with hollow axles. You can order the hollow axles seperately also but $. I went with the 32s because of the axle and easier to find rims. I recommend your combo and I ride the same except for CX Rays.
I don’t see the big deal about riding these hubs in the street. Plenty of us do over here. Nice, affordable, and readily available.
Mr Bear I agree also that Sanshin Pro, Suntour Superbe Pro, and Suzue Promax track hubs seem to go longer than Dura Ace in between tear downs.
[quote=Cadence]Are the seals from durachi road hubs adaptable to the track hubs? This seems like an ideal solution, if possible, for riding nice track hubs on the street. Someone should try this.
As for the original topic, unless you’re obese or doing loaded touring, you don’t need 36 spokes.[/quote]
Fuck off cadence
32 hole, dt revs, miche lo flange
[quote=mander][quote=Cadence]Are the seals from durachi road hubs adaptable to the track hubs? This seems like an ideal solution, if possible, for riding nice track hubs on the street. Someone should try this.
As for the original topic, unless you’re obese or doing loaded touring, you don’t need 36 spokes.[/quote]
Fuck off cadence[/quote]
I’m backing cadence on this.
Again, for the OP or anyone under 200Lbs, 32 spokes is plenty.
[list]
[]There’s no reason other than irony to use 36 spokes or “track” hubs.
[]Pragmatically speaking 32h is preferably, cheap sealed cartridge bearings are preferable.
[]Never use thread locker on spoke nipples, ever How are you going to re-true a wheel that’s got cured thread locker on it?
[]Never use aluminum nipples unless you really, seriously need the lightest possible wheels, ever.
[]Straight-gauge spokes are junk.
[]
[/list]
What’s the verdict on 3x vs. 4x? Got the cheapo alu frame from ebay and thinking I need some give from the wheels to make the ride more comfortable. So I’m thinking 36 x4 on open sport or pro.
4x is pointlessly complex. Wheels don’t make a bike more comfortable.
36x4 would be stiffer, me thinks. you’d have more luck using bigger tire.
i used 36x4 on my bmx bike exclusively.
I disagree with your first point heath. 36 spokes in the back is a good choice if you need a lot of dish on an old “soft” rim that doesn’t like high spoke tension (MA2s come to mind); you are building a 29er wheel or you just plan on doing dumbass stuff that necessitates an overbuilt wheel; you like the idea of easy field fixes for broken spokes, you use your bike to carry heavy stuff every once in awhile; and I’m sure there’s more.
I’m looking if I can squeeze a 25mm in there, but certainly, rims and spokes have an effect on the quality of the ride to some extent. Why would the pros bother changing their setups for paris-roubaix otherwise?
because they need stronger wheels to deal with the cobblestones. nothing is really gonna soften up that ride besides tires, seat, and bartape. i believe 700x24-25c is pretty standard for the roubaix.
I’m looking if I can squeeze a 25mm in there, but certainly, rims and spokes have an effect on the quality of the ride to some extent. Why would the pros bother changing their setups for paris-roubaix otherwise?[/quote]
Because a lot of your typical road wheels wouldn’t survive paris-roubaix
I think 27mm is typical
24h or 28h is enough for Greg. I don’t think he is interested in trick track.
36h is a relic of the past when rims were shallow and or single walled.
(warning, weight weenie justification)
For all weather all purpose wheels or rims without eyelets I use brass. (Accept on some Sun M14As there I use aluminum nips and copper based anti seize grease on the nipp/rim interface.)
With proper lube on the nipple bearing surface, a good spoke wrench and some care putting the wrench to the nip I have no problems bringing wheels up to max tension.
I do get some cracked nipples on older wheels when retruing but its a price I’m willing to bay for 40 grams!