I’m looking if I can squeeze a 25mm in there, but certainly, rims and spokes have an effect on the quality of the ride to some extent. Why would the pros bother changing their setups for paris-roubaix otherwise?[/quote]
Because a lot of your typical road wheels wouldn’t survive paris-roubaix
I think 27mm is typical[/quote]
Tubulars babby! More volume, better ride!
4x is pointlessly complex. Wheels don’t make a bike more comfortable.[/quote]
It also doesn’t produce a more laterally or radially stiff wheel. It does tangentially, but who cares.
…[/quote]
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Edit, Also a 200lb guy riding 18h front 32h rear. Both homemade, never broke a spoke.
actual edit: testing if that was my mistake… it was
Agreed, for those unique circumstances. 36h have a place for heavy loads and burly, overbuilt wheels, but still that’s a stretch. With modern components and a rider weight under 200lbs I can’t imagine a need. Further, a non-dished fixed wheel is going to be hella strong with 32 spokes compared to a dished road wheel with 32 spokes. Even still, those 4 more spokes are going to be about 30 grams, not a big price to pay for a little more strength if that’s desired.
…justification?
I’ve got an old surly fix/fix that between its former owner and myself probably has 1000+ miles on it with no problems at all.[/quote]
Epic rofl at 1000 miles being a test of durability.
Surly hubs have known bearing problems.
[/quote]
point wasnt that i’ve run the fuckers into the ground, just that they still spin fine after 1000 miles, and for like, 1/3 the price of dura ace hubs why the hate?
im 225lbs and hard on my wheels and i would never ride a 36 spoke wheel on the road, its pointless. i run 20 up front and 24 in the back on my road bike and its acceptable. i would like to go with something a little stiffer though, 28 or 32 is in my future if i build up a wheelset for it some day.
that said, i ride mtb with 32 or 36 spokes and the only difference i notice in wheel strength is the actual rim. cheeseball 36hole rim is cheeseball while a nice 32hole rim will stay true till i move on to the next bike/wheelset.
2 questions:
[quote=EivlEvo]2 questions:
I build wheels because I like too, Ebay hubs and rims helps keep the costs down. Box of 75 spokes X 3 for some builds makes me cry.
[quote=halbritt]1. A tension gauge isn’t necessary, but it’s helpful especially if you want to build the strongest wheels.
2. It’s not cost effective to build wheels that one can commonly buy machine built. I could buy CXP33 on Ultegra 6600 for $320 from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse or I could build it myself for $350. CXP33 isn’t even as common as an Open Pro and is often a “custom” build.[/quote]
It’s cost effective when you have QBP or some other parts hookup. otherwise I agree it’s about the same cost or worse. Having built many of my wheelsets, I think there’s a lot of mental benefits to riding on stuff I assembled.
I’m going to build my next wheels. I’m looking for a truing stand for my new apartment.
Also, I’m Pro-tension gauge at least 1-2 rotations on every build. I wait until I’m close to the mid twenties on the tensiometer before checking.
+1
…justification?
I’ve got an old surly fix/fix that between its former owner and myself probably has 1000+ miles on it with no problems at all.[/quote]
Epic rofl at 1000 miles being a test of durability.
Surly hubs have known bearing problems.
[/quote]
point wasnt that i’ve run the fuckers into the ground, just that they still spin fine after 1000 miles, and for like, 1/3 the price of dura ace hubs why the hate?[/quote]
Surly track hubs are absolute shit. I know many people running them (friends and/or customers), and they are constantly replacing bearings and fucking with the hub adjustment. They need constant hub adjustment because they never stay in adjustment. I have seen a properly adjusted/tightened Surly rear hub leave and come back in 30 mins. and be loose. Formula hubs are cheaper and WAY better. The stock bearings aren’t anything special in the Dimension/Formula/whatever name brand track hubs. Ride it until the stock bearings need replaced and then buy NICE bearings for it. A poor mans Phil if you will? Paul hubs are shit too!
Building wheels can be cost effective sometimes, but most of the time it really isn’t. Almost all of my own personal wheel builds were using used hubs, used rims, both, or new parts I bought at a discount because I work at a bike shop. Even with that I have bought many prebuilts (mostly from QBP) for my own personal use.
I’m about ready to overhaul my formulas. Get me into some “NICE” bearings.
Pre-built wheels will get you the same components, but components are only half of what makes a good wheel a good wheel. I’ve seen some really shitty prebuilts with nice components (Ultegra/OP/DT DB) and built and seen others build some really fucking good wheels with cheap components (Formula/Deore hubs and CR-18/Rhynolite/Alex Adventurer/Salsa Delgado rims). Definitely have a kick ass set of wheels I built with Delgados and sub-tiagra road hubs (taken off of some shitty Alex prebuilts) that I expect to be using as my go-to beater/utility 700c wheelset for years. Still hella true, even though that rear wheel as seen many, many miles of sloppy singletrack and fire road riding with two loaded Ortliebs.
Not all pre-built wheels are bad, but some are terrible. I feel like it’s not just a matter of what company you buy from, but also who was running the machines that day and who was checking the wheels before putting them in the boxes. Too much luck involved. If I build a wheel, I’ll know that it’s good. Plus, I like building with spoke washers at the hub. Machine built wheels don’t have those.
Plus I fucking love building wheels.
I’m about ready to overhaul my formulas. Get me into some “NICE” bearings.[/quote]
Phil Wood.
Thats mildly what I suspected.
I have a truing stand (Jim if you’re looking bikeisland has the absolute best price for new aside from ebay that I found, not endorsing… just stating the truth) but have yet to build my own set though I want to. Primary reason I got it was because the shop here in ND looks at me funny sometimes when I need wheel stuff. They don’t stock parts for most of the high perf wheels I roll (like my reynold carbon tubs and such).
I wish spoke tension gauges weren’t so expensive. I have a great ear for tune, but I’m pretty nervous about going the Sheldon route.