Start with a good frame. Spend some money to get it to fit you correctly and go from there.
A good frame is where I want to start. OK i really want it all right now!
1 things with the ability to hold a beer
2 things with the ability to swoon pretty girls
3 porteur rack
A frame is reasonably cheap to replace if it’s not working out for you. Assuming the frame is the right size, just about any decent frame will do. A complete will yield a group at a deal that you won’t be able to beat in the used market and a bike that you can ride on day 1. From there, you can add saddle, bars, and wheels.
The only reason to build something up is the joy you get in doing so. It won’t be cheaper, but it may be easier given that you only have to spend small chunks of money at once. Also, you’re not left with a set of Alex or Weinmann rims that you have to flip afterward.
get a hefty balance in your bank account and go get a pro fit… best money i have spent on cycling.
…then get some 68mm edge carbon tubulars… second best $$ i have ever spent.
Then put those carbon tubulars on a Cross Check with a porteur rack.
#1 some sort of aero wheel
#2 $100 chainring
#3 hip color matchy saddle
this.
but I’m gonna ramble a little…
I think there’s kind of a minimum for ‘decent’ quality parts. Example: I’ve got a set if wheels that’s RX100 hubs to Mavic 192 rims; it’s not as nice as Dura-Ace/Open Pro, but it’s maybe 95% as nice. That’s fine. Nicer tires (GP4s, for example) would make a bigger difference than dropping from 2000g to 1800g on your wheelset.
I think on wheels, ‘good enough’ is almost as good as fancy. Other things that are similar: stems, headsets, bottom brackets, cranks, derailleurs, brakes.
Having the appropriate gearing for the riding you’re doing is important. Don’t ride an old 52/42 crank with a 12/21 cassette if you live in the mountains and you’re out of shape. It will not be fun.
Don’t spend too much on used parts that have fancy writing on them but are worn out. I’ve seen older guys who don’t know much about bikes putting, say, single pivot brakes that say ‘Campagnolo’ or ‘Dura-Ace’ on a bike that don’t work as well a new pair of Tektros would. Don’t upgrade your wheels just cos the internet told you Alex rims suck.
basically if the bike fits, is running smoothly, and has 700c wheels, aero brake levers, and index shifting, it has achieved the bare minimum. after that it’s gravy.
get nice tires.
What Dylan wrote. Also, Alex rims do suck. They’re heavy as lead.
yeah, heath. but they have more momentum when you get them up to speed. 
Sun makes some clunkers too.
I forgot: get some Phil grease, so you can say you have some Phil on your bike. solves all bling-envy problems.
[quote=sneaky viking]yeah, heath. but they have more momentum when you get them up to speed. Sun makes some clunkers too.
I forgot: get some Phil grease, so you can say you have some Phil on your bike. solves all bling-envy problems.[/quote]
Bontrager rolf-alikes off my friend’s lemond. Definitely greater than 2kg for a supposedly “decent” set of wheels.
Sorry, but I have a prejudice against heavy ass wheels with straight-gauge spokes. I’m only just starting to be ok with 105 parts. I suppose I’m an elitist bastard.
oh you definitely are.
heavy ‘rolf-alikes’ sounds like the worst possible kind of wheel you could have.
what part of your body touches the frame?
(I swear i’m not trying to be a dick, I’m just curious.)
edit: Jim’s post says cat 1 includes fit, so that means frame then.
ok, carry on.[/quote]
Yeah, I was pretty much basing that off starting out with a frameset first. Though, if starting with a complete and upgrading/swapping/downgrading/whatever I guess that means pretty much the same thing, just different approach.
I’m assuming the OP knows enough about bikes to pick the general frame size and geometry that is according to his opinion / intended use.
If that assumption is reasonable, then I think it’s better to splurge on components (drivetrain, brifters, wheels, etc.) than on the frame… if the budget is tight.
You can always get a fancier frame down the road but assuming you get something that fits, I think having a smooth running drivetrain, light / aero wheels, comfortable saddle, etc. is a better investment. After you ride for a while you save up and then flip your current frame and upgrade to your dream frame, bringing over your dream components. That’s my theory anyways 
Alex rim’s have such a rep cuz they make it onto lots of cheap completes. But the truth is their factory is capable of making very decent rims. Only problem is those usually come out with other brand’s decal on it.
[quote=surfimp]I’m assuming the OP knows enough about bikes to pick the general frame size and geometry that is according to his opinion / intended use.
… if the budget is tight.
You can always get a fancier frame down the road but assuming you get something that fits, I think having a smooth running drivetrain, light / aero wheels, comfortable saddle, etc. is a better investment. After you ride for a while you save up and then flip your current frame and upgrade to your dream frame, bringing over your dream components. That’s my theory anyways :)[/quote]
I am not a total noob, nor am I a walking fountain of bike wisdom, BUT the budget is TIGHT, and I bought a work horse/commuter/grocery getter in the spring. So After this It is going to be tough to get money * from the budget for more bike related purchases outside of maintenance. I feel like this is a chicken or the egg kind of question. Right now I am hoping to get frame that I really like and have the $$ to buy a compete off CL to swap every thing ells off of. Still the bitchen complete would be great.
- I am not too concerned about the wheel set, as I think the wife will gift me with a winter solstice/ anniversary gift of parts and an enrolment in a wheel building class at a local repair-shop/ coop.
(ok maybe I should be really concerned about the wheels)
i’ve always thought it was like this:
- stem, tape, and bars
- saddle
- tires
things that affect the comfort/fit of the ride seem to be the most important in my eyes.
this.
but I’m gonna ramble a little…
I think there’s kind of a minimum for ‘decent’ quality parts. Example: I’ve got a set if wheels that’s RX100 hubs to Mavic 192 rims; it’s not as nice as Dura-Ace/Open Pro, but it’s maybe 95% as nice. That’s fine. Nicer tires (GP4s, for example) would make a bigger difference than dropping from 2000g to 1800g on your wheelset.
I think on wheels, ‘good enough’ is almost as good as fancy. Other things that are similar: stems, headsets, bottom brackets, cranks, derailleurs, brakes.
Having the appropriate gearing for the riding you’re doing is important. Don’t ride an old 52/42 crank with a 12/21 cassette if you live in the mountains and you’re out of shape. It will not be fun.
Don’t spend too much on used parts that have fancy writing on them but are worn out. I’ve seen older guys who don’t know much about bikes putting, say, single pivot brakes that say ‘Campagnolo’ or ‘Dura-Ace’ on a bike that don’t work as well a new pair of Tektros would. Don’t upgrade your wheels just cos the internet told you Alex rims suck.
basically if the bike fits, is running smoothly, and has 700c wheels, aero brake levers, and index shifting, it has achieved the bare minimum. after that it’s gravy.
get nice tires.[/quote]
While there’s nothing really wrong with the DA16/Deore wheelset that’s on my bike right now, I will admit that I can feel a substantial bump in performance when I throw a set of Open Pro/Ultegras on there with the same tubes/tires/PSI. It’s probably a case of knowing what you’re missing versus appreciating what you have, but it’s at least worth mentioning.
Don’t build wheels because you think they’ll be cheaper. Can’t get parts cheap enough to make that a reality.
I know they will not be cheaper, but I would like to learn how to build wheels. I do most of my own maintenance, but I have never built my own wheels and have wanted to learn for a while!