I am going to be getting a road bike before the end of the year. If I can find the right complete I would gladly buy it, since it would probably be a better deal especially if I wait until the weather turns bad for the winter. However I am not opposed to buying a nicer frame and a building it up with used parts. BUT I really don’t know how I should approach this as far as bang for buck. So how do YOU rank the importance of a good build. Below is something I found on the interwebz today. Agree, Disagree and why?
"We believe in budgets. Spend what you can…spend what you are comfortable spending. We see people struggle with how to spend their dream bike dollars. To assemble the best possible riding rig, follow the rules below:
Where to put your dollars, in order of importance:
Frame
Wheels
Saddle and Tires
Pedals
Drivetrain Equipment and Brakes
Color and Paint Quality (hey…it has to look good and last!)
Everything Else…"
As long as you’re getting something decent, fit is really the most important. Even when buying completes, I’ll usually buy a new saddle, pedals, and often, bars. Not that I’ve bought a new bike in awhile or anything.
Assuming everything is in good running condition, you’ll notice a wheelset upgrade before you’ll notice a RD upgrade.
Save the flash money for after you get everything else figured out.
Most of that is common sense to you by now, I suppose.
[quote=EuroJosh]1) Get a complete bike with the level of drive train you want.
2) Add saddle that works with your butt.
3) Ride
4) Nice wheels are usually the best first upgrade ATMO[/quote]
this, but i’d add pedals/shoes into #2, unless you already have what you want.
i did this recently and it actually worked out pretty well. then again, i worked my way up from a $25 frame and $25 wheels and somehow wound up with a bike that will have my most modern drivetrain (9-spd).
anyway, as far as spending money… frame then wheels, then everything else.
saddle is very important, as is proper stem length and bar shape and even bar tape. but you can get the “right” ones for cheap if you are not a weight weenie about things.
same thing for pedals and shoes. $40 used ultegras will feel just as good as $300 new titanium dura aces.
brakes are an easy way to save $ if you’re buying part-by-part. a 2001 pair of sora brakes will stop just as well as the new dura ace 7900s, again only difference is weight.
i’d also say derailleurs could be lower end - think 105 or mirage, not DA or record. better to have something sturdy and cheap than flashy ti or carbon bits.
cranks and brifters i’d give a higher priority to… yeah.
Wheels are important for sure but ATMO the contact points trump all other factors. You could have a Cervelo S3 with Zipp 404’s… if the saddle hurts your ass after 3 miles, if the bars are so wide you feel like a midget trying to rock them back and forth, if you can’t ride in the drops no matter the angle because the bend hurts your wrists, and if the shoes/pedals don’t “do it” for your personal preferences, you’d be better off on a Bike Nashbar frame that met all those needs (and got all the contact points where they need to be). Bar tape is also a no-brainer but that’s cheap and goes without saying that if you hate the tape you got, might want to swap it out.
So, ATMO, first priority is the frame fits and the geometry matches your given pursuit (e.g., probably don’t want 75 degree ST/HT angles if your focus is touring/long rides). Since most people are able to meet that pretty easily, contact points come in second and stock off-the-shelf bikes rarely meet those needs.
And of course… tires are no place to skimp. They matter more than having bling hubs, BB or HS.