Does the shorter travel make the dick-punching behavior of the Specialized control posts worse or better?
man 50mm travel is also like, not a lot.
But it does make a difference in some cornering.
It doesn’t make a difference in ass behind the saddle that leads to broken ribs.
http://www.tumbleweed.cc/bikes/
“The Prospector ships with a 135mm spaced chromoly fork with rear disc brake spacing. This allows for drivetrain redundancy, since the front and rear wheels are swappable. For example, one could run a Rohloff hub in the rear and a single speed hub in the front for a long trip in a remote location without access to any bike shops.”
If one were riding in an actual remote location, wouldn’t it be better to avoid the Rohloff in the first place?
And yeah what happened to your wheel? You gonna wheelie that pukebacker all the way to the LBS?
I’ve always wondered about that with these types of bikes too. Dont most wheel failures deal with rims and spokes?
Yeah, if you bork the entire rear wheel, it’s not going to do you any good when you move it to the front (of the bike). I would also imagine that a 135mm-spaced MTB wheel (with the accompanying dangler and cassette) is pretty ubiquitous.
The whole, “But what if…” thing is a bit of a stretch, IMO.
I had a hub shell crack in half once, wheel rolled fine but freehub locked up. This was on the MTB and I definitely do not want two rear wheels on a MTB.
We need pubes to weigh in on this…
Just hire one of those mobile bike shop vans to follow you. Problem solved.
[quote=Rentable Faxmachine]http://www.tumbleweed.cc/bikes/
“The Prospector ships with a 135mm spaced chromoly fork with rear disc brake spacing. This allows for drivetrain redundancy, since the front and rear wheels are swappable. For example, one could run a Rohloff hub in the rear and a single speed hub in the front for a long trip in a remote location without access to any bike shops.”
If one were riding in an actual remote location, wouldn’t it be better to avoid the Rohloff in the first place?[/quote]
Think about the kind of people who buy Rohloff bikes. It will make perfect sense to them.
split stays for belt drive too? monostay rear end in case your fork breaks?
[quote=Rentable Faxmachine]Yeah, if you bork the entire rear wheel, it’s not going to do you any good when you move it to the front (of the bike). I would also imagine that a 135mm-spaced MTB wheel (with the accompanying dangler and cassette) is pretty ubiquitous.
The whole, “But what if…” thing is a bit of a stretch, IMO.[/quote]
If the internal hub starts to skip, there’s nothing you can do about it other than check your cable tension. The insides are a black box and the parts too finicky for field maintenance.
I ran into this bikepacking with an Alfine - I think when I put my handlebar sling back on the cable tension changed, and the hub was popping. But there’s no way to see what’s going on.
On this bike it feels like a roundabout justification. To get the fat tires and low Q, they’re stuck with a single speed chainline. But the SS touring market is a niche within a niche. They can open the options to internal hubs, but then they have the fallback for their biggest liability.
Basically, igh are shit, and having a backup is a good idea. The obvious solution is to use a normal drivetrain, but this is bikes were talking about.
they have some garbage qualities but Rohloffs are nigh unkillable
Being able to swap your two wheels is of limited utility there
But being able to buy a generic replacement front wheel instead of some fatbike nonsense sure is useful — if you borked your front you could move the surviving 26x4 up and put a 26x2.3 on the back to limp along with
It also gives someone with a fancypants pugsley wheelset, or any old 135mm Rohloff a more modern frame to upgrade to
The real disaster there is the Phil eccentric used with set screws, even if you don’t pop the threads out of the frame the eccentric gets gouged up and impossible to set exactly where you want it. Luckily the same shell will fit a self-expanding Bushnell, but the real die-hard answer there is a pinch bolts on the shell.
at the risk of incurring the wrath of tarck IGH seems fine in my experiance of top of the line “red band” NEXUS 8 (there are coaster brake equipped, apparently super turdly versions of the nexus 8) and alfine 8 hubs
The guy who owns the local shop is obsessed with IGH’s. At any given time, there are between 4 and 8 “shop bike” builds that are technically for sale, but appeal to basically the owner and almost nobody else.
That said, I love all of them. My usual routine is to stop by the shop and park my bike outside, and then I use a shop bike to run errands all day (was encouraged to do so) because they’re all a hoot to ride. All of them have old Sturmey-Archer three-speeds or two speed IGH’s. They get ridden infrequently enough that none of them will ever need maintenance again, except maybe brake pads and tires once in a while.
One of the bikes had a two-speed fixed gear “automatix” IGH that would switch over once you reached a certain speed. Except, it was still a fixed gear so you had to contend with a sudden cadence change with no warning. It was almost unrideable. Two mechanics crashed on it, one of them seriously. I didn’t have the cajones to try it.
So basically me, and coastkid from MTBR forums.
Oh yeah, I hooked up both of my parents with bikes this year and both use IGH’s.
You know what is easier and cheaper than all of this? Just using 26" wheels and a derailleur.