also fwiw i have some salsa bend 17 bars on my fuel because my wrists don’t be appreciating anything less.
you’ll need a 35.0-31.8 shim, a 31.8 knock block stem in your preferred lengthway, or the little clampy knock block spacer dude that’s oddly difficult to get in the US, or was 2 years ago anyway. my buddy at trek sent me one so i could run a reg stem
You’re missing weight reduction step #1: pie plate removal
Ha! Dammit I pulled the reflectors and other stickers but forgot about that!
The place to lighten up a 29er is definitely tyres, IF YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH IT. Since you already cut a tyre, thats a bit of a gamble. The stock wheels are probably quite heavy, compared to say Hope hubs some DT Comps and a middle of the road DT rims. Scoring lightly lused wheels or hubs to build around on Pinkbike B&S shouldn’t be impossible!
Though I’d rather ride a 15kg mtb that holds up (and I do, my Swoop is 14.7kgs. Sure fancy steel and some semi light parts in places) than a light thing that I can’t abuse and take sloppy lines on.
I’d be a bit wary of putting a too long stem on it, long-low-slack doesn’t jam well with longer xc-style stems. I’d ride it a bit more and get a bit more used to it, since you are coming from that old C-dale 26er…
Yeah, don’t change the cockpit yet. I bet you will get more used to it. Lightness is nice and you can probably swap out the cassette for something more reasonable, since cheap wide-range cassettes weigh a fucking ton and are probably not more durable than medium priced ones. Same with cranks, though then you will be spending some dollhairs.
For the most part, I’d say it doesn’t really matter. That’s a better bike than pretty much anything available 8 years ago for any price. This is such a shockingly good time to ride mountain bikes.
You should put your hands where they need to go, especially if you’re switching to a bar with more sweep.
Yeah, but your sense of “where they need to go” might need to be adjusted for a bike that rides really differently from what you’re used to. Coming from that Cannondale, I bet the front wheel is like 6 inches further out in front of you.
I feel like if you need to put a stem much longer than 50mm on most modern trail bikes to get your hands where they need to be, the bike is too small.
And if you put on a SQLab 16 degree bar, you need to add 10-20mm, so your 50mm stock stem is now a 60 or 70 to keep your hands in the same place.
The stem length is not a magic number.
I’m looking into re-building a 27.5+ hardtail since I have the majority of the parts just laying around, i.e., wheelset, tires, 31.6 dropper, bars, brakes, 120 pike. I just want to go steel for the material as my last al experience left a bad taste in my mouth. I have 2 contenders I’m considering, but both have some concerns. I’d prefer going frame only, and keeping it somewhat budgeted.
Karate Monkey
Pro:
-Can still get shop bro price
-Will fit my fork and wheels
Con:
-Like all Surly’s it’s just an “Insert great frame here” setup to hold my components
-30.9 seatpost, I only have 31.6 derpers on hand
-Non-replaceable der. hanger
Esker Hayduke
Pro:
-Fits all my junk
-Cool name
-Price is ok
-Replaceable der hanger
Con:
-Super dimpled stay instead of a yoke doesn’t elicit confidence
-More expensive than the surly, and doesn’t include a rigid fork in the price
Any thoughts?
Kona Big Honzo ST?
hayduke comes in coolest colors
Assembled this today and now really want one. Swore to not ride another carbon bike but its so good.
Recently built up an aluminum stumpy evo in the s3 sizeway and really enjoying it. I thought I’d notice the weight coming from a carbon stumpy but I really don’t. I thought I did at first, but it was really just not having my shock setup well.
I was worried about having to re-learn cornering because of the long reach but I find myself cornering with more confidence now, which I believe is probably from the bikes overall length. Long bike is long af.
i went mtbing for the first time in months the other day and i was rippin corners on my trance longboi
wild that even trekalized make longbois now
though it doesn’t look like this one has an XL-equivalent size yet
Hop on an s5 enduro, but yeah, long af. Looks like s3 evo is longer than enduro, huh.
I was feeling it pretty good when I lowered stem and shortened stem to 32mm. Maybe 511 was a bit much for whole package, but feels so good.
Do need to have shop replace dropper cartridge, since manic died on me real fast. Have replacement but don’t have vice to do at home.
I’m 5’10" so no issue for finding the right fit for me. I feel like Specialized has always done cool stuff with the Evo lineup.
Hah. Jon is on the new Enduro too and he’s loving it.
I had great success with the Manic. I would’ve kept it if I didn’t want a 200mm dropper.
I want to replace my SRAM Level brakes with Shimano units. Was thinking Deore or SLX (don’t need 4-pot calipers). Sup has SLX on her Pivot, and they feel OK, but not dramatically better than my current Levels (although the former don’t require constant tweaking).
I ran the old Deore brakes for the last 4 years. If you get the XT rotors and use the metallic pads, the braking is on par with any of the upper level brakes.
The major difference between the upper tiers is the lever adjustment. If you don’t care about that, then run the Deore.
