All things NuMTB thread, now lower longer and slacker

[yonderboy]

Number 1 and 4 is something I’ve been struggling with. I used to feel like I was going to overcook every corner until recently. Getting my chest over the bars really helped with my cornering, especially when railing berms.

It took some time to find the sweet spot, though. I spun out more than a few times by unweighting the back too much and fishtailing out.

It’s been a while since I’ve ridden in Bend. I just spent a day lapping a bermed trail until I got it figured out. I want to say Lower Tyler’s Traverse might be a good place to practice.

[amy]

1 through 4 are things you’ll adjust to. Your brain doesn’t adjust to completely new geometry in a few rides. I’m finally getting user to my 64 deg head angle on my sentinel after a year and getting convinced I just needed to sell it and get something else.

On climbs, try scooting forward on your saddle a bit? That always worked for me before I got a steep seat angle bike.

Might be worthwhile to do some flat cornering drills to practice leaning the fine and body position to optimize your turns.

I think it will just take some time. Give your brain a bunch more riding to dial it in. I think you’ll find it’s much more precise than it feels right now with improved muscle memory after a bunch more hours of riding.

[drwelby]

observations from cornering long (510 reach) bikes:

• move your body straight down, don’t stick your butt back
• inside knee points toward the corner
• lean bike by driving your outside knee, almost like a tele turn
• outside elbow up like you’re throwing a hook punch can help

[yonderboy]

I usually try to drive my hips into the turn, but I’ve noticed on the bigger bike, I’m driving my outside knee towards the top tube as well.

[Crustradamus]

Flexibility helps? Actually bending at the hips rather than just feeling like you are but not really doing it? I’m often stiff as a board but noticed that I get more confident on bike with a bit of stretching, doing weird dance with my hips to loosen them up, etc…

[JUGE_FREDD]

Did initial bike rack setup on the firetruck, and actually rode the bike

did not mess with or even check the suspension settings at all and just went for it with the tires firm too, but definitely need to dive into that now

maybe 170mm cranks are ok in this context, but I still want to try my 180s

I am tempted to find some ~12° bars but I will try to hold off, might try swapping the thicker/softer 34mm grips from the Katu first

[JUGE_FREDD]

@jimmythefly

Right now it doesn’t feel balanced front/rear in terms of suspension performance. I’m also near the upper limit of weight for this bike which probably has a lot to do with it.

you’re ideal for air volume reduction tokens, lower pressures and more progression

for me my fork is way too supportive and stiff, I probably need to take tokens out

[Blakey]

@JUGE_FREDD

Did initial bike rack setup on the firetruck

pics!

[Crustradamus]

The pile of rocks grows skyward @Falkor

Big one out of its home

Next day:

It sends!

[BEEutiful_Wednesday_DDS]

why did you take the rocks OUT

[Crustradamus]

It was in the way of the landing. There used to be an upslope and now it is a downslope.

[Falkor]

Hell yeah that’s rad

[JUGE_FREDD]

@Blakey

@JUGE_FREDD

Did initial bike rack setup on the firetruck

pics!

so far a locking thru-axle mount, a simpler thru-axle from Russ, and a locking QR

I need to add some kind of tie-down loops bolted into the corrugations of the bed for strapping the rear wheel down to, and then I can take the pump rail out too

The bed sides need some reinforcement now that they aren’t bolted to the heavy frame, you can see the crack through the original brace on the right side. I’m thinking the diamondplate could be trimmed back, and tube stake pockets added as the new bracing?

[yonderboy]

@kmcdon

… fox transfer… If we tighten it enough to stop this from happening, the post binds up and won’t work right.I can’t get it to the right torque to both operate properly and not slam the post the first time you hit a bump.

I was fighting with my post today, with this same issue. I ended up having to go to 3 Nm on the binder to get the post to rise all the way. I may have to look into a 2-bolt clamp.

[Face]

Friction/assembly paste? Line up the split in the clamp 180° from the split in the seat tube?

[yonderboy]

Rotating the clamp got me up to 3.5 Nm. It’s already in there with friction paste. I’ll give it a shot and see if I get any slippage.

It looks like the Salsa clamp is the tallest of what’s available. Everyone is going for lo-pro now.

[karl_dandleton]

it’s a not-insignificant purchase but engincycles makes a cool 2 bolt jobber.

musa, looks good, made a few miles from me, plus everyone’s favorite blogger (pvd) was involved

Engin Seat Collar — Engin Cycles

[yonderboy]

They have purple ano seconds for $45. Each bolt can have a little torque, as a snack.

[kmcdon]

@yonderboy

I was fighting with my post today, with this same issue. I ended up having to go to 3 Nm on the binder to get the post to rise all the way. I may have to look into a 2-bolt clamp.

So we actually got ths shop to fix this for us, they ended up rotating the seatpost 180 degrees and now everything is fine

I have no idea why that worked, but it’s been solid ever since.

[yonderboy]

I’ll have to try that next.