All things NuMTB thread, now lower longer and slacker

If the fork hasn’t been ridden in a bit, make sure to cycle through at least the first bit of travel to try to get the seals loosened up a bit, though if it’s moving freely at lower pressure, they are probably good enough to set sag.

If you got an air pressure recommendation from the rockshox site, it’s possible that you got it for the wrong fork model, since rockshox has absolutely inscrutable model names, especially for the billions of variations that come on stock bikes. I remember from my shoprat days pulling service instructions and getting inside the fork only to realize that these were the instructions for the RSL Reba 120 model from a few years ago, not the RLS Reba 120 RL model that was available on stock bikes from Giant for 8 months last year or whatever.

Also make sure that you are looking at setup recommendations for the right travel setting. The same fork model set to 100mm travel will require more air pressure than if you ran it at 120mm. I think.

If you’re going off the sticker on the fork leg, who knows? Did the damper or travel setting get changed at some point?

I would just set the air pressure wherever you can get about 20% sag and see how it feels, then try using the rebound settings for that air pressure as a starting point. I usually end up with my rebound a little bit faster than the charts recommend.

I say this as though I have ridden my mountain bike in months.

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This sounds like the negative spring might not be equalized.

When airing up the chamber from 0, you should fill it roughly half way, then cycle the shock a few times. That should equalize the pressure and let the valves work correctly. Then you can fill it up to the desired pressure.

I would recommend releasing all the air and start over with the recommended pressure, but stop half way to cycle the fork a few times.

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That is also why servicing the air spring might be worthwhile, as it could be gunked up around the little dimple inside the stanchion.

I was surprised to see this post yesterday and the video linked. Started watching the video, but had to stop. Then they took it down.
Wasn’t on the Spec dealer site, but not sure they are going to be. Someone on mtbr said Ranch Camp VT is going to be seller in the NE, but don’t see much on their site either.
Not sure if they pulled it because they were saying they reviewed the 160 when its obviously a 140 (shock stroke biggest giveaway), or something else.

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Would rather not deal with microspline or XD. I’ll probably buy some someone’s take-off wheels to get going.

I really don’t think I need huge range. I underbike okay with my gravel bike on a 42 chainring and 11-36 on most trails around here.

So maybe 11-42 with a 32 or 34 chainring?

I’d love to order dangler, cassette, shifter, brakes and cranks from one place. Maybe that’s too optimistic.

This matches my experience with basically every air fork I’ve owned. I end up running lower pressure than the mfgr suggests. Then for air shocks on FS frames I’m always higher than their rec. Iunno.

Is this kind of spec something that we can expect brands to pick up on? It is 100% what I want in a bike, not a specialized… but you know…

Ripmo AF, commencial something, I’m sure there’s more.

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That’s basically where all the direct-to-consumer brands are sitting. The big brands are either at entry-level or wünderbike-level, it seems.

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Advent X seems to be in stock places and works well enough. 11-48 10 speed, HG.

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Norco Sight A1 for similar travel/spec to that S

The $999 frame/shock price is the real news tho. If they do one of those for trail travel, I would probably try to get one to replace Mrs. Dickason’s hardtail frame.

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Damn, Commensal looking good for under 3k. Wish their trail bike came in 27.5… No clue what I need 160/180mm of suspension for.

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Yeah I’m considering that option.

Then it’s cranks and brakes. For brakes I want shimano wet ones right? What cranks are good for <$100?

RaceFace Aeffect?

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Ya I’m towards the bottom of the weight range written out on the fork leg. Guessing things get fuzzier around the boundaries

I looked over the service guide for this fork and after determine tools and materials I’d need to acquire I’m leaning towards finding somewhere local to have service done

@dfl I did find it difficult to look this one up and it probably was a stock fork on this bike ~3 years ago, but I think I found it. First I tried going through their online tuning app using the SN but the Tuning page is greyed out for this fork

@yonderboy thanks for that tip, I’ll try starting from 0 and cycling it midway

Okay, sup was always having trouble getting to sag at recommended settings, too. So it could just be forks are not really set well for the lighter weight riders.

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I got the 9 speed group and played with it on the big rig for a minute, and it was just a slight bit clunkier than I was willing to live with long term and the shifter ergonomics were bad. clunky as in upshifts when attacking downhills could be jarring enough to knock a foot off a flat pedal. downshift quality was completely acceptable for me. as to the shifter, the issue is that the clamp is poorly placed, such that if you run it outboard of the brake lever you’ll be busting knuckles and inboard is a hell of a reach. overall, a groupset more ideal for commuting or other more casual 1x applications.

that said, the 10sp version offset the clamp to fix the paddle placement issue, and I’d be willing to wager the shifting overall will feel a bit more refined based on the tighter cog spacing and such. I’d probably be running it now if it had been in stock when I was buying, but instead I’ve settled on an 11sp Deore/XT mix that for me was only marginally more expensive and is undeniably better.

the key part here is in stock

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i’m so intrigued by the status, also pretty baffled by media rolling out reviews since like mid last summer to very recently, and as frank mentioned nary an announcement to dealers or smidge of info on the B2B. like i remember when they were hyping this bike giving it to retired bmx bros to test out what feels like well over a year ago

i’d be super hard pressed not to get one if they ever materialize at such a price, would 100% be the ticket if i allow covid to fully smash my fledgling enduro racing ambitions

I’ve been able to piece together GX stuff pretty easily. The eagle danglers work 11 or 12 so you can toss a Sunrace 11-46 or 11-50 into the mix and yolo off to the trails.