those look pretty pleasant. i always forget about shimano as a flat pedal purveyor
The chester equivalents they have look pretty nice.
I really like the diety compound pedals. I like the grippy pins and composite body. Plus theyâre thin. There are definitely rip offs now and thatâs what I usually get now but I donât put a ton of miles on anything. Iâve heard of the plastic breaking but theyâve been totally fine for me jumping and smashing onto rocks.
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Iâve bought a couple pairs of these now as nicer chester-equivalents, the bodies are slightly convex to have bigger bearings but I havenât noticed any issues because the pin height makes them concave enough.
The plastic colors are an exact match to their extremely nice grips
I havenât used composite pedals on mtb for a few years. Smashed through a couple of pairs rapidly before getting big metal ones. You all like them? I feel like the plastic is less grippy in the wet too but maybe thatâs just me. Plastic sure brings the price down.
If youâre open to plastics with pins, I have these and theyâve gripped perfectly in the rain
Yeah, i have two pairs of chesters, but i am just not confident about plastic on the mtb even though my boyfriend is still riding chesters and his seem ok, i just looks t how damn beat up the metals ones are and it gives me a pause.
My two sets of metal pedals i have currentlyâŚ
the spanks are absolutely wrecked, but the loose worn bushings on them are less annoying to ride than the creaky shifting spindle in the one ups.
Should I get Spanks? Which model are you running?
I found some Blackspire sub4 for like $60 new in Italia while picking up other stuff for my build and almost bought them, but want to treat my size 47s to a bigger platform.
If these existed then I might actually pay for them since they look so kewl:
but it seems that Shimano has delayed the release of the new Saint and XT for quite a while.
the spanks use 1 bearing and 1 bushing, so they quickly y get very loose on the spindle (mine move like 1mm side to side), but if that doesnât bother you, they spin smooth and put up a with a fair amount of abuse. I have new bushings for them (have replaced once before, so this would be the 3rd set of bushings), but have been procrastinating on installing them for ages and now I also need new pins because theyâre all ground down to a smoosh.
the service is easy at least (via that exposed nut) and the nut itself has not come lose for me at all while riding.
One thing I do like about the spanks is that the pins are not installed via a tiny allen in the top of the pin, theyâre a small hex instead or a recessed screw from the other side, so they are easily removable after being ground to bits.
The one ups are all fro the other side, which is great too.
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Alright, more mtb dqs!
New bike has 11mm more reach. Should I get a 10mm shorter stem? That puts me on a 30mm stem on a 120mm travel ~65.5 degree HT bike lol. Bad idea? I feel like Iâd be just fine on a 40. Legit bike companies spec this frame with a 50, 60mm in my size.
The greatest lie the devil ever told is that the you can tell the difference between 10mm anywhere on your bike thatâs not a contact point.
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I would ride it with the parts you have and then adjust as necessary.
The only parts in my mtb bin are a dropper post I just took off my other bike. So I need to buy something.
@jame5on This is a pretty close to a contact point and yes I donât care much about milimeters on mtb fit where Iâm mostly standing but the bigger consideration is how the front end is gonna feel with different length tillers.
What width/rise bars are you going to run? That may affect your decision.
I feel like 50 is a good starting point at any rate.
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Get your saddle position right, then measure from saddle to bars. Distance from saddle to grips is still more relevant than bike geo when sorting out the fit IMO.
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I was going from Jones bars on a 110 stem to 780/35 rise / 40 mm stem on mtb and the fit difference didnât bother me. I did notice how the bike steers however. I dunno, Iâm big and have long limbs and can adjust. It would be nice to not make a bike that steers like a turd.
The nice thing about the new bike is that a lot of the numbers that affect fit match the Sentinel:
Compare: 2021 NS Bikes Synonym TR1 XL vs 2018 Transition Bikes Sentinel GX XL - Bike Insights,
I was thinking of trying a wider bar but maybe it doesnât make sense on a shorter travel bike. The easy thing to do would be to just stay at 780. Iâll probably do 35 or 40 rise (whatever matches current stack height, spacers included). Would like reach to stay roughly the same. In general, Iâm going to roughly try to match the fit of the current bike, but I can adjust to dial in how it steers.
Seems like most new mtbâs come with a 50, so that always seems like a safe bet imo
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Hereâs a fun read:
The more I think about it, the more it seems like personal preference.
40 or 50 is probably fine. Since it will likely be a bit steeper hta, and shorter fork, it should be a smidge easier to get the front wheel up. I think getting close the reach and stack realm will make it easier to jump back and forth. And since you arenât going full shreddy on it, not the biggest deal if it takes half a ride to get used to other bikes after a few rides on it.
1.5 degree or so steeper. Should also be significantly lighter.