It’s like a Sqlab 30x with real rise at half the cost
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blink twice if you want us to send help BK
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Ok so i ended up picking up this dirt cheap marin pine mountain. It needs some shit before its trail ready (the tires are dry rotted and the knobs are peeling off).
The KS lev integra post on it is pretty squishy. Is this worth fixing or just find a new one?
Anytime have a 30.9 dropper lying around they wanna sell?
It’s also got a kinda shitty RS judy if anyone is trying to sell a nicer-than-a-judy 29er fork in 120-130 travelway.
Found a turbine R post locally, $100, never installed, so lucked out on that.
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I can’t figure out the Fox 34 step cast fork. I feel like if I set the compliance I want via pressure then the sag is like 30%+, the first 1/3 of the travel ends up kinda useless, then it ramps up super hard at the end anyway! If I focus on the end of the stroke, then it is way too soft. In the first two cases, I feel like the fork could ride higher most of the time. If I start at their sag numbers, the fork is way too stiff.
I want it to ride higher and be more compliant deeper in the travel, so I feel like I’m using all mighty 120mm and not saving the last 20 for special occasions. Really I’m trying to make it feel like my 160mm fork but with less travel. Maybe because it is an xc fork it is supposed to feel kinda harsh? I dunno.
I’m thinking about running more pressure and removing a volume spacer (I think that the fork comes with 1 installed). Thoughts?
I’ve now read all sorts of conspiracy theories like that Fox packs so much grease into their forks from the factory that some oil passages get clogged. Help.
It doesn’t help that I’m riding packed little park pumpy jumpy trails with this bike. Decidedly not what it is for but I really feel like the setup is the problem. Toward the end of my sesh yesterday I switched it from open to medium setting (fit 4 damper) and I feel like that was kinda good for actually being able to feel some preload on takeoff but also not killing my arms on bumps.
I had my 34SC in for the 125 hr damper rebuild last winter, but I didn’t notice much difference in the behavior.
I’m planning on replacing mine with a regular 130 mm 34 after this next season. I think the smaller air chamber in the Step Cast lowers makes the ramp rate higher than I would like.
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Installed the 16-deg/50mm rise Hudski bars on the Marin and they feel a lot better than the stock jawns (9-deg/28mm rise). May need to run a slightly longer stem (stock is 35mm), but we’ll see.
Yes, pull the volume spacer out.
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more volume will help you here. maybe try one of these to trick your fork: MTB Air Fork Upgrade – TruTune
Congrats @ProCracknfailBro and the rest of the crew. This looks amazing.
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Everything but the headset cable routing.
Also, is it true no lefty fork options in US (okay the 14k lab71 version)?
Was stoked to read about the threaded BB and ditching the ai lacing/offset, then totally lost interest with the headset routing.
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I know through headset routing is probably not that bad but I’ve sold bike for lesser things that bugged me.
I’ve watched a few build videos of bikes that have headset routing. It seems like fishing the cables/hoses is a lot easier than trying to go through little ports on the downtube.
For a road bike, I could see it being a headache to drop the fork out. On a MTB, you’re taking the fork out to service it anyway.
i just like how thin the tubes are
Biggest complaints I’ve heard is from mechanics saying it provides a funnel for water directly into the headset bearings, and swapping a stem can now be a much more complicated task.
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I’m about to pull the trigger on an Ibis Ripmo AF V1 frameset, I can’t see any reason not to.
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It’s what the people want! Who is gonna tell the people they are wrong?
Think I addressed my fork setup quandry with saddle time (hadn’t ridden for 2 months) and getting back on my pushup regimen a few weeks ago.
edit whoops that wasn’t supposed to be a reply
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