Bicycle Touring

Also one more thing.

Road Morph pump = awesome for touring…

[quote=bigmatt][quote=daedelus]I would consider the BLT as a frameset, but I’m not sure it’s worth the extra cost compared to a LHT. Seems like I could just get the Surly and some nice racks and it would be about the same.
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The LHT would also leave you with some money in your pocket, BG wouldn’t. The BG is nice, but I think overpriced for a glorified LHT. I.E Taiwanese made 4130 frame/fork. It comes with racks, but the Surly racks are also 4130 and cheaper. Also, as much as I love threaded headsets, threadless is far superior

With all of that said I own a LHT with Surly Nice Racks front and rear. I have only owned it since the beginning of the year, but I love this bike. My first commute in to work on it I felt like I was riding a Cadillac. The long wheelbase and big tires just rolled over and soaked up the great Michigan roads on my commute.

One other thing on the CC vs. LHT. Look at the geometry numbers. With the exception of the BB Drop and chainstay length they are very close to identical for the same size frame in both.[/quote]

This is pretty much what I was thinking. I also prefer threadless. I like that fact that I can adjust or take the whole thing apart with an allen key.

However, I think there are some relevant differences in the geometry of the LHT. Namely, longer wheelbase due to longer chainstays, which is important when carrying big panniers. I’ve heard the CC could have problems with heel strike. Also, the longer head tube would put the bars up higher for comfort.

I’ll probably try some light touring on my CC, but I think a dedicated frame would ultimately be better for serious loaded touring. Part of the reason that I’m thinking about building a dedicated bike is that my CC is slightly damaged and really not set up for touring- it’s basically a road bike with extra clearance. Since I would have to change most of the drivetrain, I might as well just build the right bike for the job.

[quote=daedelus] I’ve heard the CC could have problems with heel strike.
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I get heel strike with SOME shoes on my 58. I have a pair of New Balance shoes with a long sole and a kind of back-sticking heel, and get strike, but my cycling shoes and vans are fine. What size are you?

if you’re worried about heel strike on a CC, get the racks that allow you to mount lower and further back.

could you pick up a lht fork for a cc? there’s only a 1mm difference in rake between them.

^^ depends on the model.

Because one fork is for 26" wheels and the other 700c, so the braze ons for the brakes will be in different positions.

probably could switch one with the other if you wanted to…

I ride a 52 and wear 43.5 specialized mtb shoes, but that doesn’t really mean much until I get some proper rear panniers and try it out. I’ve been using ortlieb front rollers on the rear with no heel strike, but those are pretty small compared to what I would likely need for self-supported touring.

This is another option I was considering.

Thanks for entertaining my questions everyone. This project probably won’t become a reality until I figure out how much tuition is going up next year.

what, on your rollers?

Budget exhausted. Still looking for a rear rack. Can’t afford the Nitto Campee anymore.

Between the Tubus and the Blackburn, would there be a noticeable difference in stability with loaded panniers? The Tubus would almost definitely be stiffer and have a higher weight limit, but it’s more than double the price of the Blackburn, which I’ve never heard complaints about.

vs.

the blackburn will be fine. I like my tortec. What about the topeak or the tortec?

Good, that’ll save me a lot. Yea, I’ll check out Topeak, Tortec and other brands that make pretty much the same racks.

The Campee would’ve been pretty nice though. I my panniers lowww.


get low.

I had that basic Blackburn rear rack on my Nishiki and it did fine for my commuting. I did a Cranksgiving alleycat on it and had it eventually overloaded. Even before the overloading it was having a little bit of trouble with the lighter load. I did the race with a friend and he noticed my rack was actually swaying a little bit. It stayed together even after having 40+ of food loaded onto it. I did upgrade to a Tubus rack (vega) on my Nishiki The Tubus racks are far and above a nicer rack. If you can swing the $$$ go Tubus. I ordered mine from the bike trailer shop along with a set of Ortlieb front rollers. They were the cheapest I found on both items and you get free shipping over $99.

This thread needs more pictures. So here is a picture I took of my Surly Long Haul (Semi) Trucker today:


just another photo

That’s hot, bold. But do you live with your grandmother?

Not anymore, I live in sweden now. All growed up.

My Blackburn lasted ~1000 miles of offroad touring with 30+lbs regularly loaded on it.

[quote=bigmatt]I had that basic Blackburn rear rack on my Nishiki and it did fine for my commuting. I did a Cranksgiving alleycat on it and had it eventually overloaded. Even before the overloading it was having a little bit of trouble with the lighter load. I did the race with a friend and he noticed my rack was actually swaying a little bit. It stayed together even after having 40+ of food loaded onto it. I did upgrade to a Tubus rack (vega) on my Nishiki The Tubus racks are far and above a nicer rack. If you can swing the $$$ go Tubus. I ordered mine from the bike trailer shop along with a set of Ortlieb front rollers. They were the cheapest I found on both items and you get free shipping over $99.

This thread needs more pictures. So here is a picture I took of my Surly Long Haul (Semi) Trucker today:

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Wayne from The Touring Store will price match any US based online price.

After a quick visit to Paw Paw West Virginia