the cx9 works fine with shimano levers.
Old shimano? Not the new revised pull fanciness?
I used them on force and campy athena. just had to run the pads a little closer to the rims.
are you 9 or 10 speed? or 8?
[quote=eric_s]I had the joy this morning of having brakes which only worked to slow, not stop my descent down the fluted glacial till hill on which I live. Lucky for me, there’s little traffic, and my rims sort of dried by the bottom of the hill so I mostly slowed. Once I got to seattle and the rain had mostly stopped, then the wonderful squealing and shuddering started again. I’m going to take the brakes off this bike, and sell them once this quarter is over. I’m done with my oh-so-uber paul touring cantis.
Edit: tonight, riding through traffic, back to the ferry, it took me a half a block to stop. basically: have stopping power, squealing, shudder, teeth; or none of the above.[/quote]
post a picture of what they look like set up
something has to be fucked whether it’s the stud placement or washer arrangement or the straddle height
do the arms have play on the brass bushing they ride on? is the spring tension ratcheted up high?
I used them on force and campy athena. just had to run the pads a little closer to the rims.
are you 9 or 10 speed? or 8?[/quote]
- BAM.
[quote=Dirty Sanchez][quote=eric_s]I had the joy this morning of having brakes which only worked to slow, not stop my descent down the fluted glacial till hill on which I live. Lucky for me, there’s little traffic, and my rims sort of dried by the bottom of the hill so I mostly slowed. Once I got to seattle and the rain had mostly stopped, then the wonderful squealing and shuddering started again. I’m going to take the brakes off this bike, and sell them once this quarter is over. I’m done with my oh-so-uber paul touring cantis.
almost everyone’s cantis I see at CX races are set up improperly.
Washers on the wrong side, arms not making that perfect perpendicular force vector into the rim. Shit is whack.
Cantis suck, but half the time they get a bad rap because they are setup so fuckign jackass it makes me want to slap the rider.
That being said, until I was taught how to do it all my cantis were setup wrong.
I just fixed GFbike cantis. It was a holy shit moment when we were descending some singletrack together and her brakes finally worked right.
Edit: tonight, riding through traffic, back to the ferry, it took me a half a block to stop. basically: have stopping power, squealing, shudder, teeth; or none of the above.[/quote]
post a picture of what they look like set up
something has to be fucked whether it’s the stud placement or washer arrangement or the straddle height
do the arms have play on the brass bushing they ride on? is the spring tension ratcheted up high?[/quote]
fwiw, my cantis on my cross bike are set up with high straddle carriers. on my ss, I’ve got a front mini v (fuckin bad ass) and canti rear with a lower straddle carrier and it feels like there’s more braking power. Another thing to consider is shakes on the cross and v levers on the ss. That may have a significant a/effect on braking power.
both of those setups are “wrong”
low straddles are almost always better on cantis, and using V-levers with anything but big-Vs or mtb dicks is bad news bears
do you just really like firm lever feel, with lots of pad clearance?
Mini V halp plz.
Bike came with Shimano Touring cantis, which were ok but not amazing, changed to Shorty Ultimates, which are great, but this bike travels in an S&S suitcase, so resetting the spring tension every time is a PITA, so I’m moving to mini v’s to keep braking power but also packability.
Fork: Alpha Q CX-20
Brake: Tektro 926 (80mm arm for max rim clearance with 6600 shakes)
Rear installed fine, clearance is ok with KS Cross carts, and best with KS Vee carts (thinner body & pad-arm thickness lets arm move further away from rim before the cart hits the seatstay), these are thinner than tektro vee carts, and also better than road carts, which foul on the pad retention bolt.
Front is where the headache is, extra fork material / canti stud placement means that the brake arm hits the fork blade before the cart does, limiting arm movement. I’ve filed the arm down, and now the cart washers hit.
I plan to keep filing the arm/washers down (prob just use smaller washers) until the cart hits the fork blade, but if anyone has any other suggestions I’m all ears. Any way to space the stud away from the fork safely, or the brake arm on the stud? None of the washers I have in the parts bin will allow spacing without fouling something else so far.
I mocked up another fork (stock fork on Voodoo Wazoo CX) and everything clears fine. Worst case, I can use this fork, axle-crown & rake are similar, but it’s heavier with the aluminium steerer.
Seems I’m not the only one with this issue it seems (From: http://www.erikv.com/blog/index.cfm/2011/9/22/Mini-VBrakes-for-Cyclocross)
“but the arms don’t clear the Alpha-Q CX-20 fork (it’s bowed out for stiffness at the canti studs).”
You could just buy a CX8.4 or other fancy mini-v for the front instead of trying to repurpose cheapo BMX jawns
Awww shiit. That’s the one significant detail I’d overlooked, the TRP model moves the pad slot axis away from the base of the canti stud.
Shame the TRP are only sold in pairs.
And the followup, here for posterity and google-fu.
How to fit Tektro 926 AL 80mm mini v brakes to an Alpha Q CX20 fork:
Turns out the shortest arm mini v’s (Tektro 926AL, 80mm) have the pad slot quite far back, which wouldn’t be an issue if my fork (Alpha Q CX20) didn’t have so much carbon around the studs. If TRP made a CX8 model I’d have bought that, but no such luck.
So I filed the brake pad slot away until the arm nearly cleared my fork, added a 1mm washer underneath the canti stud and finally the arms didn’t foul the fork.
But then I had to trim the brake pad washers down because they hit too. Then I chose between four different kids of brake cartridge to minimise the distance between pad face and back side and maximise the amount the arm can retract.
Then, just when I thought I was done, I discovered that the bushings were proud of the stud, so when you tighten the bolt, the arm binds. So I lapped those back too.
Complete photoset:
Edit: Photo privacy settings fixed.
Well that sucks. I think you’re on the right path - it’s what I would have done. File some material off and use a few washers. Not much else to do.
Put some black tektro pads on instead of the kool stop salmon pads. Chatter, screeching problem solved until the pads wear in. I’m going to clean the rims and pads more often, too, though this just means more than once every 3 months.
I’ll never rid my Shortys of the horrid screech. On the plus side, it acts like an automatic bike bell to get people out of the way on the multi use path.
My xcheck utterly shut the fuck up after installing 720s a couple years back. No toe in, rim cleaning or other shenanigans necessary, ever. Could never get shorty 4s or the shimano 5xx’s to stop shrieking like a baby elephant getting tortured.
Halp.
rSogn & Haulin Colin rack, Shimano BR-R550 (low pro canti), CX cartridges, kool stop salmon pads, stem hanger, straddle as low as possible, Synergy laced to SONdelux, VO Zeppelin fender, Chorus 11sp shakes.
Screeches and resonates through the rack like a banshee. Braking power is fine.
I’ve cleaned the rim, filed the pads, toed it in, but that has no effect. Where should I start in trying to quell the squeal?
Mini-V’s or fork crown mounted hanger
both unpossible.
minis don’t clear fenders, hanger is blocked by rack to crown rod.