the exact-actuation 2x10s RD is what I use personally well with my road shakes and is a solid piece.
My reply there was just going off your original query of “Can anyone tell meet if there is actually a 2x x-horizon x-actuation 11 speed dangler? (MTB)”
Going through Shimano’s compatibility docs, it looks like since the Shimano M786 XT 10-speed dangler is compatible with recent 10-speed shifters that it could also be used with a M7000 11-speed shifter. If that’s really the case, that would let me use a M7000 shifter and an 11-34 HG700 cassette from my parts bin in a 2x setup on the incoming Polyvalent.
Then I guess some sort of friction nonsense for the CX70 pusher, also in the bin.
why do you all do this to yourselves. just do what i do and buy suspiciously cheap gray market takeoff group sets , then after a hundred miles find out why they got taken off (shitty pistons, in the case of the bike i just rode).
“well, doc, I did it again! Three bikes worth of parts, not one of which works with any of the other without a bunch of other ratio modifying parts! I see no metaphoric resonances here!”
NOT clutched. Big cassettes will chain slap when you spin n’ stop
No detente on the cable tensioner. I think this was originally meant to be a MTB derailleur without an adjusting barrel
Cable routing exit is clever
Shifts 11-46 no problem
Shifters
light upshift click feels great
on a flared bar the light upshift means you will drop multiple cogs accidentally if you as much as cover the brakes on bumpy surfaces
the tricksy shift lock that keeps you from shifting when you brake only works when you brake past a certain point. It can’t prevent you from braking so if you start a shift whether intended or not and then brake, you have wiggly levers. If you hate the levers moving on Shimanos, this feature is not a solution.
lever lock thing is plastic and I could see it exploding
long lever that gives you light shifts means large lever throw on the downshift. Makes me wonder if they’re using the same internal size as SRAM but with twice the leverage.
so far I’d have to say they’d suck in anything technical, too easy to upshift accidentally and too slow for emergency downshifts
shape is good
lots of options
Is this the mullet drivetrain solution we’ve been waiting for? Probably not.
You can combine it with the GX 2x10 rear derailleur to get a clutch, but you lose large cog capacity
You could hack the right side SRX lever to actuate a dropper and combine with blip buttons or a bar-end or even single speed.
A new dumb project: I am going to attempt to do a light shredportals treatment of this RD-M786 I scooped up on the cheap. I’ll be taking off the cage to de-ano it (either with some NaOH solution or oven cleaner) and I’m not sure how much else I can scrub clean with various grits of sandpaper before I lose my marbles. Has anyone here silver’d a black RD before?
I should paint it red and put fake crabon wrap on it like my high school walkman
EDIT: the other thing that’s funny about this is the shifter pull on dyna-sys shimano 10 (3.4) is almost the same as Shimano 6 (3.2) and Campy 8 (3.5) and I have both of those shifters around the house. Might try and see what happens for fun.
current situation, definitely found Too Strong of a NAoH (drano crystal from the hardware store on the corner, which conveniently has a Crime Aisle) solution and pitted the cage:
If you’re curious, it was 240g water to 96g drano crystals, and I left it in for a couple of minutes. Definitely too strong! Will try a more weak solution and am just gonna toss the whole body in there
It’s been a long time since I last did it but I used oven cleaner and fine steel wool followed by wet sanding. It worked out all right but buffing with polishing compound as a last step will make it more shinier.
The acid bath on the cages that was too strong … seems to have eaten off enough of the thread that it doesn’t want to re-attach into the body of the rear derailleur, no matter how much I finagle it. I will likely be getting a new SGS outer cage plate tomorrow. (It’s possible it’s a late in the day/chemical fumes issue but I don’t think so!)
Meanwhile, if that solution was too strong, the one for the body was I guess too weak. It would strip a little bit of the ano, but not another. So I would put the whole body back into the solution, but that would then make the part that had the ano stripped off already get a little pitted, while still not stripping the other little nooks and crannies. That is to say, there’s still a good amount of hand sanding and polishing in my future! I can’t wait.