Did you just ShartQ?

I’m sure it was fixable and Rob offered to fix it but honestly it’s a mechanical disc brake bike and if I had it fixed I’d want everything changed to put hydros on it, which would have required a substantial amount of work and repaint. So I got my pink bike instead.

I’m not that fussed about it, Rob made it very early in his career, I think it was like bike #15 or something and I abused the shit out of it and rode it through multiple winters

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as someone who scrapped a precious borked frame and live with the regret
thats a damn nice bike for someone to fix for themselves
paging @Orc

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Which frame?

I’ve got a White Industries ENO eccentric ss rear wheel if you’d like to try making the world’s Sw8-est fixie.

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what? Repaint, yes, unless you could find a painter who’s good a patch-painting, but it’s just replacing the cable guides, no?

2 of the 4 ran through tarck, a 3rd was at velocult iirc, we never tracked down the 4th. got doored the week before college graduation, crumpled the TT & DT, and then the whole thing got away from me in the fray in the ensuing chaos of life

That was your first 650b(?) English from back in the vsalad days?

Surely someone here could yolo a fix for that and put a basket on it. Where on the frame is the damage?

It’s like a disc brake mount

How many brakes do we really need?

I’ll buy the broke English and the di2 ti Jones.

Then it’s tall bike time.

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https://youtu.be/czjfOFMFeSY

1/2 favorite Marianne faithful songs

oh I know him from real life - we worked at the same place for quite a while. so you can just leave off the from the internet part. @Master_Stabby knows him too. just look for a guy named sam who probably wears a flat bill hat all the time.

shit I still talk to him on the phone sometimes.

Took the nds arm off, cleaned the spindle. Lubed the pinch bolts and reassembled. No crack on the spindle, tightened to spec.

Tick is back but then it started raining

Tick stopped and felt a grinding every couple rotations

This spells bad bearing

Pedal or BB? Both Shimano

IME BB.

Which is good cuz cheap.

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I also have another just in case

Yeah. Definitely more likely.

Can someone please point me to a mid tier bike nerd’s evaluation of road vs mtb pedals/shoes?

I understand the bike nerds starting position of “i sometimes need to walk therefore mtn”. This is everyone’s opinion on reddit/bicycle stack exchange, and it’s been my assumption forever. But it recently occurred to me that since covid I don’t really walk anymore because I stopped commuting.

It looks like switching to even entry level road shoes and pedals will save 100s of grams over quite fancy mtb setups. Im looking for something that adds up common combinations of cleats shoes and pedals and gives basic numerical support, or not, for this idea. I can just do this myself but maybe someone already has?

I also somewhat sense that stiff road shoes are way better at the specific job of being a bike shoe, while giving something up in all other areas maybe. Some information about this point would also help.

And im kind of curious how fast road shoes get wrecked by walking on them. It would be useful and on brand for two gcn presenters to take a hike in road and mtn shoes and see how much worse the roadie does after each 200 meters. But not sure if such a thing exists.

So, info is needed. Can anyone help?

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the big difference is the cleats, not the shoes

nice road shoes and top tier XC WC race shoes end up with awfully similar construction, but the road shoes are a lot cheaper for the same quality — the main benefits are there being a lot more breadth of road shoe options “like that” vs xc weenie gear, the lack of tread lowering the weight, and the lack of tread allowing more ventilation through the sole on some shoes

the cleats are what get beat up from walking in them, and the ~5x diameter of the cleat interface is what makes them feel so great

but just like with 2-bolt pedals, your only valid options are Shimano and Time

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I have a hoard of obsolete Time RXS pedals and cleats, that I got into around the same time as their transition to iClic cleats that they’ve kept standard for the last three generations of pedals over the last decade (oops on my part)

Time cleats have the nice quality of having plastic pontoons at the rear corners that take the brunt of walking wear, and play no role in the actual interface to the pedal. The critical toe interface is plastic and does still wear slowly, but is super visible and easy to tell when the cleats should be replaced.

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