@crowding I think has that info?
Convince me it’s worth swapping 700x45 gravel tires to 700x38 CX tires for the one CX race we’re doing this year… slight chance of rain FWIW.
What? No. You should search out a sweet old canti cx frame and build a new bike for racing.
10 Likes
Pretty sure ej already has a sw8 canti cx frame.
1 Like
Well it depends how thick it could be, coz 38s could suck, too. Though the grav grav probably has more clearance than the TCX frame.
I tried to exceed the max tooth count on 4700, but I couldn’t make it work. It may have been the hanger on that frame, though.
I know the Shadow+ road danglers will go bigger, but you would need a MTB dangler for 10sp.
Supposedly it works?
I’m actually on a 9speed mountain dangler on the 10 speed.
Yep. Thats well proven. Used that for years.
What do you want to shift? Sorry about the imprecision but here is my anecdote. With an M950 and Simplex I can get all the way from the top to the bottom gear of a Shimano 11s cassette in less than 180*. With a newer 11s ultegra derailleur, no way, the 11s standard wants to suck up more cable than a Simplex can wrap.
1 Like
I appreciate your response thank you. Unfortunately this is an untried path of dithering that nobody here has yet embarked upon.
I hope to have the result up and running by (summer? 24?)
1 Like
Hey folks, I want to do something potentially really stupid so I thought I’d share it with you all.
Observe the amount of seat tube protruding above the top tube in this photo from yesterday:
I’ve decided that if I am to ride this bike more, I’d really like it to have a dropper post that goes lower than is currently possible with that amount of protruding seat tube. I want to cut 20mm off the top.
Anyone ever read about someone doing this to a mtb? I guess I’m coming to it from the perspective of people chopping their road bike integrated seat masts down to size, but those of course may be especially thick or something to handle that eventuality.
I know I’d need to see how far down the seat tube remains a circle, whether it becomes ovalized at a certain point. Anything else?
That and I guess how far down it’s butted, if it’s butted at all? I imagine it’s a bit thicker at the clamp than at the not-clamp area
1 Like
3 Likes
hahah I remember watching this a couple of years ago, prior to wanting to chop this thing down. It is interesting that he says he had issues with the fibers fraying, considering I just watched a video of a Park Tool dude cutting down a carbon seatmast with a hacksaw blade and a guide with no problems.
my only tip from cutting carbon seat posts and bars is to wrap the cut spot in a strip of blue painters tape, draw your cut line on the tape then do your thing. it helped keep everything clean and seemed to reduce splintering/fraying
3 Likes
How long is the dropper that’s on there?
And fresh blade.
1 Like
Oh it’s carbon.
Is carbon even “butted”? IDK how any of this works.
That’s what the chipper Park Tool mans did. He also splashed soapy water on the cut every once in a while to keep the dust down.
@Dickason_Daniel it is a 170 or 180 that came stock on my larger bike. Fully slammed into the tube, this shorty is a couple mm longer than the 210 is on my other bike at full extension. The saddle on the new bike is significantly higher in the down position. See me in new and interesting bike components for the resulting thigh bruise lol.
tbh cutting carbon steerers i always had better luck with a fresh metal blade than the “carbon” blades
Echoing using blue painters, tape, and spraying the hell out of it with simple, green or soapy water