Bad. The two halves of the hirth joint need to be snug against each other, otherwise you’ll end up with the two arms rocking back and forth as you pedal, which may end up with you shearing the teeth and converting the NDS crank into an expensive cosmetic crank.
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Kinda what I was thinking.
It was a last ditch effort to make something work.
this isn’t true though
If the joints aren’t completely mated, your bearings would be jammed SOLID
The UT cups leave a ton of slop room for the bearings/semiaxles to wiggle around, with the wave washer providing some minor preload. On an accurate 68mm shell you can shove from the DS and dislodge the crank a mm or two.
My wave washer started kinda wearing out and I had to put an 11->10 freehub spacer behind the NDS cup. I left the washer in there so it still clicks sometimes, but it’s good enough.
the Full Monty is to do a WaveWasher-ectomy with blanchard-ground shims to get the width perfect
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On press fit shells, you’d have to pull the bearing, throw in a 24mm shim (opened up to 25-26mm and then reinstall the bearing. Downside is that the inner race may not be completely supported.
he makes a plastic version for pressfit
Remind me not to buy campy shit. Even though now it seems to be more hated than my beloved sram
If you like your bike to work, buy Shimano.
If you want your bike to get likes, buy Sram
If you would like to be eurotrash, buy Campagnolo
If you would like to spend all of your money, buy Rotor.
Rotor is super cheap second hand. For the cranksets at least.
Campy is pretty great for spending all the monies
Rotor only makes cranksets.
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Pure simplicity because bicycles only need the impulse of passionate people, like the technicians that assemble ROTOR UNO by hand at our factory in Madrid, and who guarantee that each part measures up to the demanding quality standards that mark our products.
Secondhand Campy is usually pretty cheap. Pre-2015 Campy stuff has a back catalog of hundreds of thousands of cheap and nearly indestructible derailleurs. My preferred setup now is pre-2015 11-speed shakes with a Centaur carbon medium cage dangler and an 11-speed Shimano drivetrain. Works flawlessly and you don’t have to deal with weird Shimano cable breaking or screwy Japanese ergonomics. It’s a real “best of both worlds” situation.
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No no no. You’re not listening.
rotor only makes cranksets
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idgi
I think it is that most cyclists only know of rotor because of the cranks, either because they came stock on their bikes, or they were able to buy them cheaply when someone is selling them.
Maybe also that rotors group looks ugly as hell and hydraulic everything seems like a misstep in the age of robot assisted shifting?
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Has anyone actually used it? Anyone here? Any pro teams? Any wrenches in the local bike shop? It seems like it’s almost vaporware.
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Mostly it seems like why bother with liquid shifters when cable works completely 100% fine. And if you want to get gud shifting get robo clickers.