Universal has both BH90 and BH59 olive/barb kits in stock
This is the way except I use a fresh razor blade with the hose on my workbench. I see no need to buy the special tool unless youāre doing it a bunch.
Am I the only one whacking the barb in with a hammer, like a monster?
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Definitely not, although I usually use a soft face mallet not like a claw hammer like a savage.
the fancy dedicated tool is a razor blade that has some plastic molded around it with different geometry
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Yeah whatever is at hand basically. I have a cute little 4 oz hammer.
I use a knipex thing thatās good for cutting PE tubing as well. I suppose if you also had a cigar or needed a circumcision, itād work in a pinch.
I use a brass hammer to wack in barbs. I have a pusher, but whoās got time for all that?
Are the people who wonāt use a plain razor blade the ones who will remove a crown race with a screw driver?
I remove crown race with screwdriver and install barb with fingers and then smash it on the workbench till flush
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Thereās another way?!?
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My āhackā was taking those yellow blocks that can wrap around the hose, putting a vice grips around those, then smacking the barb in with some kind of hammer
Thatās what Iāve been doing. I splurged on a hose cutter, but the block-and-hammer method works fine, ATMO.
I think thatās what the Shimano instructions say, except replace vise grip with vise.
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Yes, this is the intended purpose of those blocks.
If iām building a frame with a nominal 35t max chainring clearance and I want to run a 36t, is it kosher to run a couple of thin (.5mm) spacers to bump the driveside crank out a bit?
Iāve been doing a 1.5 mm BB spacer for a while to make clearance for my left side power meter. Iāll compensate the opposite side with a pedal spacer.
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Ok so I went to do the ole swap a roo earlier today on the hydraulic disc brake. I had bought a complete brake/hose/caliper kit but the new brake lever has some funny brace things that goes against the handlebars and makes it impossible to install my grips.
So I figured, whatever, I really just need the new caliper (it was leaking).
Is there any reason I can just unscrew the old caliper and screw on the new one and use the existing lever and housing? I understand there are different sized olives and barbs but I think those depend on the hose and not specifically the brake caliper and lever? The olive on the existing line (installed) looked different than the olive on the new line (not yet installed) but I couldnāt tell if that was just a function of being installed vs new in package. I also assume I can reuse the barb and olive since I didnāt need to adjust the hose length?
All Shimano sruff, so all mineral oil.
Old: BR-M396
New BL-M6100 lever (not using), BR-M6120 caliper
You arenāt supposed to reuse the barb and olive because the olive is the part that keeps the juice in the hose. It is essentially a crush washer.
Having said that, Iāve heard of people doing it. Iāve never done it myself and wouldnāt recommend it.
Based on what you are describing, I donāt think you donāt need a new barb, but technically you need a new olive.
You need a new barb everytime you shorten the hose. You need a new olive every time you reconnect the hose, as Crusty said above, itās basically a crush fitting. Thereās always a chance your system will leak if you reuse it.
That said, Iāve certainly somehow attached things wrong and had to immediately undo and reattach and didnāt suffer any major consequences from it.
I canāt speak to the compatibility of your old lever with your new caliper/hose though. Thatās more of an @adem shimano encyclopedia question.
IIRC the clamps on those levers sit further inboard because of that brace thing. Can the things on the other side of the levers be moved further inward so you can install the grips?