Thanks for the further nuance. Collecting it all for my LBS. Based on the thread, I already bought the 11-40 and I’m returning the 11-42.
Also collecting the posted info for my LBS, they’ll appreciate it. Knowing there’s an issue at the ends I can ‘bias’ the bike towards the bigger cogs where I’ll generally be. Worse comes to worst, the 11-36 is still an improvement over what I have now.
If I decide to do any serious touring in the mountains, I’ll swap in a 9-speed Alivio triple.
sq: if i’m on a bike with a saddle pushed as far back as possible, and i still feel like my butt needs wants to sit further back, would a longer stem help?
hmmm that’s definitely worth checking! normally if my saddle is too low i end up with some knee pain, which i haven’t experienced on this bike, but i’ll try that and see if it fixes things
I’d say 2-3 weeks pretty standard for this sort of thing. The only reason Shimano is faster is it’s on the portal and they auto generate shipping labels.
The FSA one is slower largely because FSA USA is pretty tiny.
We’ve done a few FSA ones and it has helped that we already have a direct account with them and know the right people to email.
Not to throw the shop under the bus but I bet it took them a few days to figure out who to contact.
I get the impression shops often just drop warranties and recalls into their existing repair queues instead of running a separate stream but who knows.
The wrench I talked to said they had processed a few of these recalls, just didn’t give me a timeline. Said it usually pretty quick once they ship the new crank.
Other shops said no because they didn’t have an existing relationship with FSA regardless of what FSA’s dealer list said.
FSA is generally easy to deal with too. I’m guessing you all work with Steven. Something nice about just emailing an inside sales rep a want list instead of thumping around a b2b. One of the best things about the post Covid industry is brands relying less on QBP and getting better and dealing directly with shops again.
Okay here’s a real SQ. Got my new caliper installed and bled, wiped the rotor and caliper down with some brake cleaner I sprayed on a shop towel to clean up the oil, installed the included pads and got the caliper aligned. It’s not doing any weird rubbing anymore but the pads they are a howlin. I really can’t fuckin remember if that’s normal break-in bullshit and I’m too old and tired to ride around my neighborhood with my front brake shrieking like a banshee. I’d really like to think I didn’t contaminate the pads already but I also feel like I probably fucked up with the brake cleaner
Were the old pass resin/organic or metallic/sintered? What compound are the new pads? It’ll usually be marked on the back of the pad.
Mixing compounds can make a horrible noise and you’ll need to sand down both the pads and rotor well to get it to go away.
What kinda rags did you use? If it’s the red ones they often have oil in them right out of the bag and enough I’ve seen it cause brakes to squeak when they were wiped down with a red rag right out of the bag.
Old and new pads were resin and it was just a blue paper towel so hopefully I’m good there. I might bust out the sand paper but this morning I feel like it’s probably just a break-in thing, I was just sort of in a mood last night when it wasn’t immediately perfect lol