Potential issues with b-tension are the main concern in my experience with running a double on a cassette outside Sram’s “recommendations”.
It WILL put some strain on that GX dangler. I’ve had some of the b-tension screws on this style of Sram derailleur bend because the line from the threaded hole to the tab the screw runs into becomes pretty wonky. The solution we came up with was to actually thread and loctite two small nuts onto the tip of the b-tension screw so those run into the b-tension tab with more interface. Both bikes with this hack have been flawless ever since. IIRC both were running a 46/34 or 46/36 with an 11-42. Your combo should work. I would just take the extra time to get the b-tension screw set up securely on the tab. In both failure cases it wasn’t catastrophic, but getting a replacement b-tension assembly was a pain.
Wait… are you running drops? IF you’re running 11s mtb shifters just do what Motorbacon said. A gx10 won’t work with an exact-acuation 11s mtb shifter anyway. IF you’re running 10 or 11s Sram doubletap the long cage GX 10s is your huckleberry.
this is what tarck is about. i wonder if it’s at all worthwhile to look into getting some standoffs to do this. sounds like it’s unnecessary is the nuts worked fine, but tarck is also about over complicating
Is there a tarck approved folding work stand? I have pretty limited storage, so something that can fold up small and preferably not weigh a million lbs would be nice.
I’ve been using the Park PCS-10 stand for the last 8 or so years. It’s been good, but haven’t used anything else so I don’t know how it compares. Pretty sure I waited for it to go on sale (REI 20% thing) before buying.
Feedback Sports makes the only portable work stands worth considering. I recommend the Pro Elite, because it has the better clamp, but the more basic ones (Classic and Ultralight) are excellent as well. They all fold up to fit in an impressively small space.
Park’s portable stands suck. I mean, if someone is giving you one or it’s like $50, sure, but if you’re buying at retail, Feedback Sports’ stands are better by every measure.
2nd that. I have a Park tools stand that is one generation older than the current offering and I’m always underwhelmed with it. They did update the clamp on the newest version which looks significantly better but older versions get progressively crappier.
I was considering upgrading the clamp on mine but every time I think about it I come to the conclusion that I should just get the Feedback stand.
seconded on the pro elite. have had one for the last 5 years. folds up easily and packs away small. the clamp is better than anything else out there. holds big bikes with no issues. the quick eject button is great too.
i have the little removeable tool tray also, which is crucial when you dont have a work stand (no space for one). i just grab what i need and put it in the tray and move the stand wherever i’ve got space (the driveway or the livingroom depending on weather…).
Thanks for all the tips Braden. I am running drops, which is why I was curious about the 10sp GX in particular. I’m gonna try it out with your b-screw hack, I can always size down if it sucks.
So I’m having an ass problem that has kept me off a bike for almost 2 weeks now. I think that this may have something to do with my 1st Gen Cambium, which I’ve realized has stretched a bit and I think has me resting nearly on the rails at times. Do those who know know if the All Weather fixed the stretching problem? I’ve got a C19 All Weather that seems good but I don’t have enough miles to know whether it’s gonna stretch out.
DQ: So I’m prototyping a fly-by-wire drivetrain for my traditional randonneuse-to-be and I don’t want the wires to be flapping around my handlebars more than absolutely necessary. Is it a guaranteed deathtrap to punch holes in my handlebars so I can route the shifter-to-shifter wires inside them, and if not which is the best face of the bars to put them on to minimize deathtrapification?