Did you just ShartQ?

Under the tape to the end of the bar.
Through the bar to the other lever.
Under the tape to the other lever.
?

That would certainly work; thank you! (Or maybe drill holes close to the ends of the bars so I don’t end up routing the wires over a pinchable edge but can avoid AlMoSt CeRtAiN dEaTh.)

I’ve heard from reputable mechanics that drilling holes certain ways will be fine. Major companies have certainly done it. But I’d drill them below the levers so, if the bars snap, it will be when you’re in the drops and probably doing something rad (sprinting, descending, getting air off of 5’ drops) and you’ll get to tell a good story about how you lost all of your teeth.

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Why not use handlebars that are factory drilled?

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I was thinking of maybe an inch or two from the barends; my hands only settle there when I’m lazing along at speed against a headwind, so it’s not likely I’ll jump into a (what I laughably call a) sprint while grabbing there.

I don’t think there are any classic rando-style bars that are drilled (at least I’ve not been able to find any on the net of a billion lies)?

It stretches across the nose piece in a way that the canvas layer has separated at that spot, but I don’t see any cracks in the rubber. Apparently this was pretty normal, dunno if just for men of substance though.

Ugh. The weatherproof cambiums are made of nylon fabric, so they might be more resistant to that sort of stretching?

  • place hole to minimize the leverage and torsion on the hole
  • put hole on neutral axis
  • put hole in thicker wall section
  • deburr hole and peen edge

It stretches, softens and sags. Source: compared new and old CambiƦ. Maybe they fixed it but you know what? I would just get a ti Scoop, spend the remaining $150 on something nice, and enjoy my comfier, lighter, better built and longer lived saddle.

Just how much do the Scoops & C15s cost in maple syrup land? Here in the Arsenal of Democracyā„¢ a C15 is a $20 premium over a Ti Scoop, so the mind boggles at a $150 premium.

If you prefer a saddle with a flat profile (both fore/aft and side/side), it’s hard to beat Ergon.

I liked ergon too!

I got a ti scoop for 65 syrup dollars shipped, and just assumed that all brookses cost 200 dollars. So yeah, ymmv but even adjusting for a steel scoop and or a 150 dollar brooks, i would not get another c17.

Here in the Cesspool of Freedomā„¢ I can find places locally that sell C15s for 100 freedom dollars, and the Ti Scoops for 95. (I’d pay much more than a $5 premium for a saddle that has a shape & no padding whatsoever, but everybody’s got their own butts.)

Any reason to get this over the m7000 cassette? They make the slx cassette in 11-42 and 11-46 and it’s only $45 on jenson.

Probably I not, I just assumed Sunrace would be cheaper

Sunrace shit is surprisingly expensive. Like not really competitively priced with Shimano.

Unless you want Sunrace 10 cassette in 11 range

Or 11-50 in 11s

Or 13-34 freewheel

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Yes, i eke out my wintertime commuting on fifteen dollar 8s sunrace cassettes from mec.

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