I hope you understand I was making a different point.
this is the inverse of what is true with progressive mtbs right now though. they are making the head tube slacker, then reducing the offset. i.e. transitions with 64 degree HTAs and 41-42mm offset.
FWIW, i canāt fucking tell if it makes any difference on mine. went from a 66.5 deg HTA and 51mm offset to 64 deg HTA and 42mm offset and its different, but not like blowing my mind??
I mean sure thatās some fancy talking but still:
Domain of wizards
if the point was RTFM and be careful, and youāll do it about as well as itās can be done, then yes i 100% agree. i just think comparing anything to the efficacy of properly set up cantilevers is selling most things short 
FWIW this is based on the marketing copy from the ripmo my friend just got so 
Has anyoone ever #bicyclesecretsed an ultra long drop front canti hanger? Iām converting my nordavinden to centerpulls to try to squeeze in an extra few mms of fender clearance. My stem is pretty slammed, no room for spacers above the hanger so even the problem solvers one is pretty tight. Cantis are beyond dead now so options seem limited. I thought maybe thereās a way to do it with a surly rear cable hanger + minoura mount or something.
dis looks good but $$$
V-brakes & a travel agent.
(failing that, what are you using for a front rack? You could always jury rig a cable stop to it if it was sturdy enough.)
The first 29ers copied the 38mm offset from 26" forks, but then steepened the head angles to match the trail values. This ended up reducing the wheel flop comparatively, so the bike didnāt feel like it wanted to drop into the corners. So youād get 71-72 head angles
To get the trail and wheel flop numbers in the same range, the solution was to bump up the offset and relax the head angle, more like in the 70-71 range.
Cannondale had some custom 69 degree head angle Scalpels built for their 24 hour racers and they liked them, but it was the the crossover from enduro and freeride bikes that brought those geometries to the market (plus wider bars, and longer front centers, both of which made higher trail geometries viable)
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Nitto Markās tombstone rack. Do you think that would actualy work? Iād be afraid of torquing the tombstone backwards.
p.s. itās for centerpulls. No canti studs or the vs would already be vāed.
Iāve seen it done before (on flickr? I wish I could remember.) But the 5/16ths brazes on those racks are pretty sturdy and if the straddle cable sits close to the tombstone the lateral forces would have to be pretty high to start bending the tombstone.
If youāve got access to a torch, you could tack on a upside down u-shaped crown stay with a cable stop on it.
The difficult part is, thatās right where my boxy bag slides over, from top to bottom. Dangit constructering is hard
Send me the rack & Iāll tack a stay/cable stop on for you?
I like where this is going. But can you ms paint me a sketch of what you are thinking of? Iām too dumb to figure it out.
theyāre reducing the offset to slow their roll towards 60Ā° HTAs
canāt have the fork binding get worse and make the wheelbase another foot longer
(higher or lower as appropriate)
The fork side of the inverted U would have an eyelet to bolt to the crown, the other side would be brazed onto the rear rail between the legs of the tombstone.
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yeah early 29ers had everything willfully ass-backwards
the super short reach of the time made everything even worse
ftfsomebody
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Drill the stem like we used to back in the day?
What about one of those headset spacer cabal hangers?
Oh! Yes, that might work too (or one of those hangers that reached up from the fork crown) and it has the advantage of not having to either ship racks back and forth across international borders or having to do a couple of 1400s to deliver and return.