I’m over 200lbs and have had this post on my cross Ike for years. Even had one on a mountain bike for a couple years. Is this your opinion of the post or does Ritchey say no to fatties and dirt?
Seems like quotes are a little wonky. This has happened to me a few times now.
Why are you’d seatpost shaming me Kyle?!
I don’t even know anymore. I just get caught up in all of the Tarck-style judging and I can’t stop myself.
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Two bolts is only a benefit if they’re fore and aft, Thomson/micro adjust style, vs side by side in the classic Ritchey. In the former case the bolts tension in opposition to each other so they’re less likely to slip; in the latter the bolts just create friction.
Got it. Thanks.
I’m fat as hell and have been super happy with Ritchey seatposts in that style on basically all of my bikes fwiw
If they we’re actually unsafe they’d have been sued out of existence by now.
I just remember stripping one out a few years ago. Maybe it’s just me.
Basically because of what Cheese said about it.
Anyone ever fuck with di2 wire covers to clean up dynamo setups? Got any words of wisdom for me before i get started?
Has anyone used other non sugino 74 BCD chain rings for the OX? I know the outer chainrings have those weird pins and ramps… I’m looking to do 44/28
always seemed like more trouble than it was worth
plain electrical tape comes in enough colors to be invisible on the bottom of the downtube, the trick is to tape down each end with a loop around the tube
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Does this question include ripping both rings off and replacing them with biopace rings?
Inner ring doesnt need anything special. Am running 44/24 with a generic TA 10s ring as the inner. Fwiw im annoyed by the setup, shifts are acceptable (though poor) but when in small ring the chain starts to hit all of the compex sugino stuff on the back of the big ring once you head towards the small end of the cassette.
I’d do 40 24 with a generic triple mid ring as the 40 if the $$ for the generic 40t don’t bother you overmuch.
Does he poor shifts have anything to do with sugino’s recommended jumps between inner and outer should be at most -16? so 44/28 - 46/30 etc
generic triple -wait @Blakey did a whole essay on budget hack nerd cranks
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DQ:
Is making internal dyno cable runs by rivnutting holes in a top tube an acceptable idea? what kind of seal should I use, is a rubber donut going to do the trick?
And same DQ, different part of the bike, but slightly wider for a hydro hose?
I would like a slightly tidier setup, but not if it’s going to turn my bike into a drilluim disaster.
I also own a rivnut setter, and am just looking for excuses to use it.
Here you go
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I’ve done it on a crabon fork. Depends where your lamp is placed but one strip of the stuff works. The reason why a $10 solution is better than the $2 electrical tape solution is because the wire will move under the cover so you don’t have to add a loop at either end
DQ: Any advantage for a 15mm T-A over a 12mm T-A on a rigid fork?
dq what is the electrical tape loop for? I assume to keep the wire stable where it’s being reefed around the most?