Excuse the obnoxious file size, but you can see this technique on my fork. If you take your time and center the wire down the strip and start/finish with a loop around tube you get a pretty good finished product. If using the Di tape I’d still start/finish with loop since Mine started to come off at the ends last time I used the stuff.
(edit) - I just realized I used a zip tip for good measure.
That makes sense. This is for a small run of rando forks, so it looks like I can get away with pushing (the smaller and less bulgy at the end of the fork blades) 12mm, because there are more 12mm dynohubs than 15mm these days.
I have them going up my fork leg and across my top tube. Clean the frame as best you can, wipe it down with alcohol before getting started. I stuck it on with the wires already inside, I’d imagine it would be fairly difficult to push them through after the fact but maybe a small string in there to pull them through would help?
Theres a few things I wish I did differently. I wish I had dry fit the covers using masking tape or something to see how they interact with everything else, I put it on the top tube so the flange would protect the frame from brake cable slap and I should have spaced it just a little differently. I should have laid a piece of masking tape along the frame as a guide to get the covers on straight. I kinda wish I had put the tail light wire on the side or bottom of the top tube, I put it on the top so it wouldn’t get in the way when carrying the bike but I mostly grab it by the down tube now. Whenever I sit on the top tube it pushes the cover a little and makes it look wiggly.
Overall, I love how it works to route small wires along the frame. It’s almost like it’s designed to do just that.
The 20t difference is my pick for why shifting isnt amazing. In terms of rings, the ‘generic triple’ tip was regarding 110 bcd rings made for the middle position on a triple. There are a few basic ones around that are pinned and go on the back of a spider a-la ox601 big ring.
Saddle hook or shoe hook, I think. Those second things are grommets; there are grommet setting tools for those grommets that range from plier-style units (moderately expensive) to punches & dies (cheapish.)
yep, make sure eyelets/grommets are stainless steel or brass. (super uber cheap eBay options could be anything, but there should be something out there that’s no super expensive and also not carbon steel)
non magnetic will confirm brass and austenitic stainless steels (as opposed to chrome or brass plates steel which may rust)
ferritic stainless will be OK and is magnetic though
Do road and mountain stems differ? I think the answer is ‘yes’ in regards to what standards they were tested to?
I don’t need a downhill stem and seatpost but I do need a stem and seatpost. 31.8 70mm stem and 27.2 post. Color does not matter but I’d love some without spending a lot and not a bunch of logos.
Suggestions? I know everyone here hates Thompson but I like them but not enough to spend the money so suggestions plz. Rather get more stuff for less money
salsa guide stem is a good bet for not a lot of money and is stronger than a thompson. your LBS probably has some scrapey takeoffs that are also stronger than a thompson.
seatposts i like the cheap zipp stuff. reasonably light, some actual setback, solid 2 bolt, doesn’t break the bank too bad