These are some cheapo bike boom ones complete with suicide levers. The throw seems super long though.
If the leverage is acceptable, you could use avid speed dials wound to their shortest pull possible?
I havenāt tried with centerpull but shimano makes a flat bar lever for dual pivots that would likely work well.
most traditional non-aero road levers were kinda medium-pull
this also makes them work pretty damn ok for Poppi impersonators using road discs
actual long pull for V-brakes is way too long
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surprised Surly doesnāt make a medium-pull lever that kinda sorta works/doesnāt work with everything.
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It sounds dumb, but some folks still would tell ya to put the bike upside down for a day so some oil touches the rubber seals that it hadnāt touched in a year. The upper fork seals tend to get squeaky when they are dry. Not too common on rear socks as most are positioned upside down relative to the fork.
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I wonder if the levers that came with my Bafang kit are medium pull, because they are arse in both long and short scenariosā¦ It did cross my mind that that could be an actual fudge.
What hub should I run for a rear wheel on an xtracycle? Have to build something new, and donāt want to ball out, Deore ok? Will I die with a 32h wheel?
Deore to Adventurer 2 is what my dummy came stock with. Itās been fine. 32 hole with some Sapim Strong or DT Alpine spokes will be plenty strong.
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Some of the longer reach centerpulls have sucky leverage ratios: they made the reach longer by just making the brake pad side of the arm longer without adjusting the upper arm wider to keep the leverage consistent. You definitely want something short pull, preferably with a long lever.
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I find those ones are often easier because you can jam the right width of screwdriver lengthwise between the arm and the nut which holds it quite securely.
The trick with these things it to not try to use them like a wrench. I prefer to jam the non working end against the crank/ring wherever it will get some purchase and use my hand to clamp it securely into the slot.
The trick with chainring bolts is to get the ones with hex or torx on both sides. That special flat tool is only to be used to remove the original bolts and throw them in your parts donation bin.
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Iām not sure how many chainring bolts I lost in the track infield during gear changes. I never lost a back, because I had the knurled Sugino jawns.
This style really did my head in when I got sram force, until I realised how easy it was remove the crank and spider. I still think itās stupid tho.
oh i know that trick but iām with @Face on this one
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Thatās no doubt the best option, but itās a tough upsell to add weirdly expensive bolts to every janky chainring replacement that comes through the shop. No question thatās the way to go on a personal bike.
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My I-donāt-want-to-fuck-with-it threshold changes a lot when Iām getting paid to fix a bike.
Itās difficult to talk a customer into buying new hardware because itās easier for me to work on, but the right kind of person is easily persuaded with colorful anodized bits.
Never change a chainring in the grass!
Most trackies superglue their backs in so they canāt be lostā¦ I think mine are glued in, but Iām not even sure to be honest.
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