I thought maybe the cleats might be backwards too, but they’re marked correctly for the easier release.
The Times do have the front of the cleat (where it touches the bail) rounded out slightly, so you could file the MKS cleats to match and get some more float and lighter release.
So I have a cargo bike I will probably get a motor for at some point. It also needs better lighting, so i want to install a dynamo setup. Should I wait until it has a battery though and tie into that? I have this feeling that not coupling the lights and battery is actually a good idea, but maybe someone can talk me out of it.
I hate the ones where the fifth bolt is hidden behind the crank arm
I think I confused myself.
They’re backwards, since the pedals are backwards. So if I’ve got the left on the left, then I’ve actually got the left on the right. I think?
just swap the pedal bodies for science already. i think maybe it was @Orc who pointed this out. something like the moving gate is on the opposite side as the times so to clip in front edge forward you need a stupid amount of force
If that’s your right shoe, then you have them it the “hard release” orientation.
Well that explains why it was hard to release. Case closed.
If you’re thinking about a front wheel drive, obviously wait, if for whatever reason thats not an option, and especially if its a wheelsize you’ll use elsewhere, i guess go for it. I don’t know much about ebike specific lights except that they exist. At the very least its more wiring that will already be done when you go electric.
I’ve got brand new Tiagra 2x10, and it shifted perfectly the first ten rides or so. It’s still perfectly indexed, but I’m getting chain slip under power in the middle of the cassette when in the small ring. Cassette isn’t wiggly.
B-tension?
“cable stretch” aka housing has compressed.
Did you check the dangler hangler?
If cable stretch the indexing should suffer, right? Still good through the range. Hangler looks straight.
Could shift fine but be a little jumpy under load.
Is this a whole new drivetrain? Is the cassette tight? Does it skip in every gear?
Yeah, new everything. Only skips in middle 3-4 cogs under load when in small ring. I’ll pull the back wheel and confirm lockring tightness, but I distinctly remember laying some ham on it for initial torque.
It’s not necessarily not those other things, but there is almost definitely some cable stretch. If you don’t have full housing or internal cable routing, at least check to see if there’s too much slack in the cable when you shift it into the smallest cog. One click of a barrel adjuster is easier and more reversible than just about any other thing you could do.
Also, the hanger doesn’t have to look bent to be bent enough to affect shifting, so don’t rule it out entirely. If something changed suddenly, a bent/twisted hanger would be my guess.
It is amazing how far out of tune gears can be and still function half decently at times. If it’s a thru axle then check it’s tight.
Sounds like hanger or cable tension off by a click or two
I haven’t ridden my fs mtb in close to a year. It has been sitting upright inside my apartment for the whole time. Is there any suspension stuff I should check before hitting the trails?
Make sure the fork and shock are pumped up to the right pressure and probably ride it around your neighborhood for 10-15 minutes and try to cycle through the suspension travel. If oil hasn’t been moving around in those this whole time and the seals haven’t moved in a year, it will probably feel a little weird for the first couple of compressions, but should get back to feeling smooth and frictionless after a few minutes.
ShartQ probably for Fred…
What flat bar levers work better with old 70s centerpulls? Long or short pull?
caliper/short IME.
I think you want a shorter straddle cable if you have a choice of them, but I’ve also had mixtes setup with ultra long ones (polygon/diacompe IIRC) to span the seat tube and those ripped skids easily with tektro foofy (FL750) flat bar levers.
I did also once have some extra long centrepulls to 650B a 700C frame in an illfated experiment paired with sram shakes, and the braking was pitiful. Probably a combo of the slightly longer pull and the long flexy brake arms.
