PF BB86 
Got a 50/39/28 triple with the big two rings totally dead. I bought a 46 middle ring, should I
a) run it as the big ring, replace the middle
b) run it as the middle, grind down the 50 as bash guard
Leaning towards b, just making sure I’m not overlooking something stupid in either option.
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They talk about ramps and pins on their 11-12 subcompact pairs
But also about their ‘standard’ rings
” standard chainrings. Designed for 5- to 10-speed drivetrains, they allow you to choose your chainrings freely. (There are no ramps or pins that need to line up.) Our standard rings work so well that I used them on my new bike for last summer’s Paris-Brest-Paris “
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Ordered some in 32mm.
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Option A. Replace the middle with a 34T and remove the granny ring.
does it have any ramps / shaping / pickup pins at all?
if so put it on the side it was born for, where the chainring bolts will recess
otherwise yolo between (a) and (b) based on how nice the shifter will be and how often you want to use it
I thought it was middle but it has the big outer pin to keep the chain from getting stuck between crankarm/ring. Stuck it in big ring zone, kept the sharktoothed 39, I think I’ll just ignore it and drop to the 28 if 46/36 isn’t low enough. Its a friction dt shifter anyways so shifting is fine no matter what.
if there’s no ramps/pickups, you can unthread the chaindrop pin with some pliers if you want to flip it into the middle position
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Guess I’m starting to dither together the old CAAD10 exercise bike that’s been sitting in a box forever. Looks like imma do an R8000 group. Question is, Di2 or no?
You should source a bunch of di2/mech brake parts, get sidetracked and abandon the project, then sell all the parts to me for my road bike.
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That was the plan.
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Is there a torque spec for carbon fork steerer expander plugs? I’m chasing a clicking noise around the front end of my Coffee Grinder, and it might be headset. But I thought I’d pull the stem and top cap and be sure the plug hadn’t pulled loose.
Might vary by plug. You have a long one? If not I recommend it. Or go to your local cervelo dealer and ask for a glue in insert. As long as you aren’t dithering they are great.
Yeah, it’s long style and it had slipped. And then I took the bolt all the way out and lost the bottom nut in the fork with the sleeve still in the fork. Had to use a chainring nut tool to coax the sleeve out to get the nut. Total debacle. It’s all good now, though.
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Did you use carbon assembly paste when you installed it?
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I did not. The plug has a textured finish that is probably meant to emulate the same grippy effect. It’d been in there since 2013 with no issues, so yolo I guess.
You really should put some carbon assembly paste in there.
Damn, I was gonna work on my bike and this chain of events as described stressed me out so bad that I felt like I had worked on my bike anyways, so I just drank a beer instead.
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The glue in my patch kit always dries out before I’ve used all the patches. I could just get a new patch kit, but I’m a thrifty New Englander cheapskate, and I don’t want to keep accumulating patches, sandpaper, and little boxes relative to the glue. Anyone know where I can get tubes vulcanizing cement that fit in the Park patch kit boxes? The tubes of Rema cement are too big.
The real answer is to tubeless all the things.
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