I haven’t cleaned the chain on the day/ruiner since I put it on in 2017. It nasty.
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Clean? I just re-lube and wipe off the excess when I remember to do it.
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Yeah exactly wtf.
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When it gets caked in mud, or turns completely black from road grime, yup! Only if it has a master link though. At least once or twice over the life of a drivetrain I’ll completely disassemble, clean, and reassemble. I still completely run it into the ground before replacing anything, but I feel this gives me some more time on a worn but not worn out drivetrain.
These always got sloppy on me.
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I’ve been getting some numbness, mostly in my left, but sometimes both, hands. I change positions constantly, but clearly one or more is not working.
It was almost instant when I rented a Bullitt with straight bars, but I get it on the Merckx too.
Are there some gloves that might help? Squats?
Body position/fit?
I would want to know more about the angle and degree of twist your wrists are making. Core strength is not bad, but usually when I have trouble like this, it’s position of shoulders, elbows, and wrists doing it to me.
Whole hand going numb or just certain fingers?
Starts in fingers and goes to the whole hand.
Bars are set um… flat? Hoods are flat and straight. My cockpit is pretty textbook. SRAM Red 10.
Can you put your bars down any?
Probably look up a bunch of shoulder stretches. Tightness in my shoulders is always the reason my arms go to sleep.
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Shit. This might be it. Shoulder strength and flexibility are my weak link in climbing too.
Update in case anyone was wondering:
Installed cassette, turned b screw in two turns and used an extra link on new chain
Did 50mi on it yesterday and it worked great. I’d expect the proper dangler gives better multi-shifts on the big end of the cassette but this combo works fine
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numbness:
pushups and conscious attention to hand position helped me with some strain in my wrists a year or so ago.
I roll my bars back about 10° or I start to get ulnar nerve compression. Another thing to look at is your saddle setback.
For me, the pain is a cumulative issue. When my fit had me to forward, the pain came on over a few weeks before it really was bad.
Are these Shimano mechanical disk brakes worth buying for the money? Folx seem to like the Hayes, but these are like $15 less per caliper than the long pull Hayes MX-5 calipers. Looking for options in case the wet brake upgrade to the Lorry doesn’t work out.
Just get the Hayes. I’ve seen several of those Shimano ones develop an issue where the pad adjustment screw backs out and you lose inboard pad contact. Plus they require 3 different tools to setup and adjust rather than 1.
Would the Hayes be compatible with the wide Shimano rotors? I already have those.
This model is saying “Pad adjust tool size unified to 5mm allen key“, maybe they’ve fixed that part.
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That’s cool they fixed it. Still a clamshell caliper. The Hayes magic is in the one piece forged design.