Did you just ShartQ?

SQ: I kind of think I want to pull the trigger on a new tandem frame, and I think it’s down to Rock Lobster or Rodriguez for builder. Rock Lobster is localish, but a longer wait, but a cooler brand? Rodriguez will build whatever, obviously, but I’m kind of scared because some of their bikes turn out so ugly, and they claim to be a lot longer in the stoker department.

Also, would it be really stoopid to get S&S couplers, but only get a single set in the middle of the bike so that it splits in half? We’d never really plan to fly or ship it, and a center split would allow us to fit it in the car and store it a lot easier.

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Lobster Lobby Recruits You

have you seen the newer Co-Motion tandems that are using Boost hubs?

large diameter S&S couplers are real expensive, but there is this one nice left-field option if the fit works for you

Don’t get me started on that Ritchey. QR axles, only one size, and way narrower tires than I’d want.
Comotion doesn’t make it easy to price out just a frameset, but they were on the radar. They just don’t seem to be quite as custom, and i dont really want to work with a dealer.

but is that one size, your size?

also pretty sure “43mm” tires are for 700c and you’d be golden in 650b

i ride a 54cm top tube usually, and can stretch onto a 56cm, so it’s like just, just outside what i’d be comfortable with. it’s like 2 bongs cheaper than any other option, but once the wallet’s on fire, it doesnt really matter how long it burns.

The mid '00s cannondale mtb tandem I found on craigslist was cheap, accepted disc brakes, and is way faster and more comfy than the vintage santana we have. Also it was $800 instead of $3,800. Not sure if this helps but it is a segue to my DQ:

On long tandem descents I notice that the brake rotors (mostly the front), which were not rubbing on the flats and climbs, are all of a sudden rubbing against the pads. Then, after a period of non-use and therefore cooling off, the rotors no longer rub. Is there a thicker 203mm rotor that is advised for tandems? Or are there e-bike rotors and calipers I could be using?

The current rotors are Shimano SM RT-66 203mm. Thanks for any guidance

Rod-brakes-riguez suggests these: https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/swissstop-6b-disc/137695936/p
Wondering if I should just pull the trigger or if there are better heat dissipating options out there

Do tandem people just use big ol’ hydraulic discs? Sure are a lot of them around now.

Those look like the cheapest possible rotors. I would step up to XT or XTR with the cooling fins.
What’s the caliper? going towards brake pads with cooling fins would probably help too.

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The BR-MT520 calipers are what Shimano specs for their e-bike line. You can use the older Saint finned pads in those calipers.

I run BR-MT520 brakes with non-finned metallic pads and RT-86 rotors, but still will heat up my back brake to the point that it will start howling on long, steep DH trails.

The 4-pot caliper will have more capacity for heat. All finned everything would further help that.

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i set up a pair of trp g spec e bike brakes on a cargo trike recently. 2.3mm thick 180 rotors. will stall out a 1600w motor on a several hundred lb trike going down a hill while i hammer on the pedals. i didnt really have a long enough descent to get it properly cooked though but they were properly impressive

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Instantaneous dropping power and heat dissipation capacity are two different thing.

Brakes are all about converting kinetic energy into heat.

Yeah I’ll be upgrading the rotors soon - they’re already a bit discolored and were indeed inexpensive.

I’m running MT420 lever/calipers which are 4-piston. As far as I can tell they don’t sell pads with cooling fins for these, but I’ll check the compatibility between those Saint pads @yonderboy mentioned.

@karl_dandleton Thanks for the details - I assume the thicker rotors must be run with the matching calipers?

@Crustradamus Santana developed 10" rotors as a drag brake, since drums aren’t in vogue anymore: Brake Technology - Santana Tandem They recommend V brakes for some-road tandems, but acknowledge that discs are preferred for the all-terrain doubles.

Experienced this exact same scenario the other night.

yeah- thicc rotors for thicc calipers

You might recall last week I had a horrible time removing the valve from a tubeless tire.

I just figured out why – I forgot that there is an O ring under the nut

I am an idiot

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I just installed a front rack through the ol’ fork hole and it basically is right in the way of my link wire of my Cantilever brakes. I need to get that thing higher so it clears the mounting bracket.

I assume I just need to get some length in the link wire (maybe need a new one/straddle?) and move it on up the brake cable and I should be good.

Anything I need to be aware of? Will this F my mechanical advantage to a point of no return?

Or you could just get v brakes like anyone that’s ever ridden cantis for more than once

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Thanks, I needed to hear that.

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