If it’s a plastic one, and you have no luck, an option is to smash the bearing out. That’s what causes the jam. Then the plastic part tends to come out real easy with the bearing out. I am in love with the screw-in Wheels Manufacturing one I have now as it’s practically self-extracting.
OK I’m almost sure that the answer to this question is “yes, the rear tire inevitably takes more weight”, but:
if you’re setting your bars a little higher and your saddle lower and further back, are you stuck unweighting the front tire? would a super long TT pull weight forward off the rear wheel? Is there a way to get that without also completely closing my hip angle?
I ask because I’m thinking it’s part of what makes me not like the feel of bike fits with higher bars. My bikes set up like this already have slacker HTA, so it’s like ugh floppy front, made all the less precise by not being able to muscle it around.
I’m asking you all instead of torturing some poor framebuilder with this bullshit.
I think making the chainstays longer is one way to balance things out with a higher handlebar and increased setback 
But that has other effects too.
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yeah fair, but that really starts to push the bike into schoolbus territory, handling wise.
Unless Darren Baum is right and we’ve all been wasting our time with short chainstays all these years.
I think what I’m chasing here is probably impossible - a bike that is set up for a comfortable relatively upright position that also can let me get relatively low and forward for more spirited riding.
Like, there’s a reason I have bikes set up one way and other bikes set up the other way, probably.
So maybe my question is: who makes a handlebar with 160mm of drop and 110mm of reach?
That’s track drop territory. Deda Zero100 Deep is probably the closest you’ll get in a road bar at like 140/95mm
There were at one point some 3T aero road bars that had unusually long reach (110 or more) aerotundo, aeronova and maybe another I think. They aren’t exceptionally deep though.
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I have and love Zero100 on my main road bike, because getting into the drops feels like you’re bungee jumping into the Grand Canyon.
ITM had some ridiculous oversized drops back in the day, but they are not around anymore. The Aerotundo was long, but the shoulder of the hooks was such that it tended to eat up a lot of reach to get a good lever position, from what I recall.
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yeah, a longer front center will take load off the front wheel and make the floppyness feel less floppy
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i think of floppy-feeling front ends as coming from too little weight, and squirmy from too much. so all we gotta do is find the flop/squirm fulcrum and i’ll finally be happy
FSA Energy Traditional and Ergo are deep bois. The traditional was Boonen’s bar for much of his career. I’ve installed them for some big dudes. It’s a big bar.
Not sure they make it still but look for the Profile Design Largo too.
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Ooh, I’ll keep that in mind next time I need new bars.
I currently have rotundos, Deda shallow and Ritchey classic traditional bend bars on my various bikes.
The carbon rotundos are amazing, shame they stopped making that bar.
The Pro Vibe are also in the same drop region as the Energy Traditional. The Thor bars are a 138, if you can still find them.
I prefer the full 9/8 tops.
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FSA Energy Traditional looks a lot like Zipp SL 88. i think the Deda Zero100 is a little deeper nominally, but the FSA and Zipp might have a boxier hook shape.
Energy Trad has a really nice top to hood transition that turns into a really traditionally round drop with a bit longer hook for big hands. It’s a really well-designed bar. I can get a 42 or 44 if you want to snag one.
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SQ had some issues with my Shimano trigger shifters today. The “pull” levers (big buttons) would kinda slip, no resistance in the button and no shifting. Then I push it again and it would work fine. Happened 2-3 times on either shifter.
Is this like a maintenance thing? Are these shifters about to die? Do I need to lube my shifters? I guess it’s not a big deal but if they are going to explode I’d like to start sourcing replacements!
The ratchet is going out. It will explode soon. It will be a spectacular fashion and on the trail.
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It’s the pawls in the shifter- the grease gets old and gummed up, usually from sitting a while or cold weather. Hit it with lighter weight aerosol lube. If you want to get nice with it, crack the shifters open to where you can see the pawls and lube them directly, working the pawl back and forth with a tiny flathead screwdriver or similar until the tiny spring is returning the pawl quickly so it catches.
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yeah, this. the grease gets weird when it gets old, so we always used to just blast it out with tri-flow.
good prompt to buy backup shifters if you want tho
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I will probably poke at it with some tri-flow but also start shopping for 10 speed upgrade parts on ebay
It’s probably a little of both of these
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Usually is. If I really wanted to do it right, I’d hit it with clean streak to get rid of the old grease, then some kind of light oil/spray lube to get the pawls moving really smooth, then like foaming lubricant to get a little more robust grease in there.
99% of the trigger shifters people think are broken are just this problem. You can keep these things working basically forever if you just take the shifter covers off and get the pawls moving again when they get sticky. It’s just that you’re never going to get that brand new factory grease feel again.
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Yeah, I thought I was doing some preventive stuff once by blasting lube into my shifters. All it did was blast the old grease into inappropriate places, 2 days before a very big event. I cleaned them out properly after the event and they have been great. Sram 10x triggers.