Looks like I’m buying some chemicals! Which is fine, buying take-off parts on ebay doesn’t look like it’s as economical as it used to be…
What’s a good way to mount a Wahoo on skinny handlebars? I’ve got the VO Porteur handlebars and none of my mounts are small enough, even with a million shims. Any ideas?
Those porteur bars are 23.8 IIRC
Maybe stem mount?
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3d print a shim?
wrap with duct tape til it fits
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I’ve shimmed all sorts of things using the thermoplastic rubber stuff often used for padding rear triangles on shipped bikes.
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I think one of the supplied mounts plays nicely on the stem
I’ve used old cut up esi type foam grips well for this
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There is a Garmin mount that uses rubber bands. If you rotate it 90°, the Wahoo will be positioned the right way.
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Garmins used to come with a super thick shim that might work? Though I think it was a 26.0->31.8 shim.
If your bar diameter is 22.2 where you want to mount it, you might be able to get a problem solvers shim: https://www.modernbike.com/problem-solvers-handlebar-shim-22.2-to-31.8mm-60mm-length-black
“Aero bar” mounts are also usually 22.2, but it’s a matter of whether you can rotate them to the right direction (so that it’s not sideways since aerobars usually would be 90 deg the other direction).
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Beer can coozie shim
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Good one, likely neoprene? This is reminding me of all the other things I’ve shimmed with bits of old yoga mat. God, I make a lot of shit out of trash.
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i know someone with a ton of chamois butt’r coozies that would be great
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oh dang that’s a good idea. I ended up grabbing one of these from REI which works. K-EDGE Wahoo Fixed Stem Mount - K-EDGE
This site is a scam, right?
Nope. Legit free delivery on all oders.
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What’s the best way to torque a chainring bolt hidden behind the crank arm?
Winter dither season is in full swing, Ritchey logic triple has been nerdcrank’d as 46-30 double into a respectably low-Q situation. However, the gap between the face of the chainring bolt is uncomfortably narrow - previous attempts to torque with finger or sculpted eraser have produced an insufficiently torqued bolt (A) . What is best practice to get some purchase on such a bolt?
Should the smooth-faced externally threaded (m) “bolt” still face out or should internally-threaded (f) “nut”, unlike the other four bolts on the crank (B)
Hidden bolts get flipped, you can spin the chainring with just the hidden nut in place.
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Thanks, I’m still unclear on how to turn the bolt if its flipped with slotted side towards the arm
There’s a tool for that
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