Did you just ShartQ?

this is about 40% of the way to being a true lever link brake

1 Like

I think this brake design was dura ace originally and then kicked down to tourney/500? I had the DA version without that integrated link wire, in that config it was quite flexible and not much chop

1 Like

I had the Dura Ace ones years ago too, without the straddle. I guess I have decide whether I’d rather have stiffer brakes, less money, and maybe drill the frame for recessed brakes, or run these.

the Dura Ace centerpulls never had the link plate, but the 600/500/Tourney versions did.

It’s been years since I fiddled with one of these, but IIRC the link plate thingy worked pretty well - no need to write a dissertation or solicit shopbro lore to figure out how to set them up right.

2 Likes

can i have better brakes?

we have better brakes at home.

better brakes at home:

7 Likes

Does a wider version of this tosco bosco bar exist? It would need to be 25.4 clamp.

Got this salsa stem burning a hole in my parts bin but only bike it can go on has long TT so I need bars that come to ME.

Bosco like close enough? 60cm wide.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel-Retro-Cruiser-Handlebar/dp/B000AO9ZG6?th=1

1 Like

I don’t see how that is going to stay hooked in a gutter though?

4 Likes

Ok so what do you call the bracket that holds a u-shaped fender strut in place on the outside of the fender? PDW is out of them and VO doesn’t seem to have exactly what i’m looking for.
I’m basically looking to save ten minutes of wandering around aimlessly at Lowes by asking here first.

Like these things? They have a 4mm set as well. They have fancier stuff if you’re looking to spend 6x more.

2 Likes

That’s the ticket, thanks!

1 Like

The 5 mm works for the PDW stays.

I would recommend using a hex bolt or rotor bolt in place of the Phillips that comes in the package. Something that will let you get a proper torque. Either that, or use some blue Loctite.

1 Like

3/16 nylon cable guides work well too if you only want to drill one hole and don’t need maximal fop aesthetics.

1 Like

Looking good isn’t fop

I just use the r-clips.

I also like to put the hex head on the inside of the fender and the nut/threads outside; I feel like it catches fewer leaves that way

1 Like

This is on a bike with 32mm tires, narrow enough that leaves/grass/squirrels can wrap around the tire inside the fender and get jammed up real good

1 Like

Is there any practical preventative maintenance replacement schedule for parts like crankarms, stems, handlebars?

I’m several years into having a stable group of bikes I ride and some of the stuff is starting to accumulate a lot of wear. Of the limited discussion I’ve read seems so arbitrary - replace at 1000 hours? 20,000 miles?

Some of the big hits I’ve had on my gravel and MTB have me wondering.

1 Like

Take apart and deep clean when the gunge gets bad

Have disposable money when parts inevitably fail or hoard doubles that you might not need

1 Like

I don’t think there is anything official like in other industries. Every man woman and child for themselves.

2 Likes