Did you just ShartQ?

if you’re really trying to keep the thumbie you could try a wolf-tooth road link or simmilar and see about extending the range.

if you want more like 11-42t range getting, say a 10sp deore group for like $150 is pretty compelling, plenty of used 11sp MTB stuff that will do the job very well

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the rear hub is 130mm on those, so you can kinda jam in whatever

you can probably do 11 speed 11-40 with a tail hook lengthener (hanger extender thing) and your current dangler

I’m shifting 11sp 11-40 with a tail-hook-lengthened 9-speed XT dangler hooked up to an upside-down front ratcheting friction shifter on my Bridgestone

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Power ratchet thumbies are the best!

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What are the fixie kids using these days for platforms and straps without toe clips?

that’s might be the ticket for me. I need to count the teeth on my chainring and decide what the granny should be. This will be getting @bward1028 ’s old clyde fork so I need to get up a steep trail with a case of party water in the basket

I remember seeing some opinions on 11s vs 10s chains w.r.t. durability… did 11 come out on top?

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I should replace this bad spoke, right?

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Ehhhhhhhhh

Is the wheel staying true and that spoke is holding tension OK? If so I’d probably let it ride.

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SQ how old is definitely too old with bike tires? I’ve got a few tires that I’m pretty sure are 7-8 years old and I’m wondering if I oughta just bin them on principle

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You just reminded me of that brand hold fast and got damn they retail for $60. We can get fyxation ones from Q for about half that. I should ask the fixie kids in my hood what they like. But they only run a strap on one side and " I cant go for that, no can do."

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Holdfast does wholesale too and has been aggressively looking for dealers.

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grippy part of my 4 year old ergons are getting gross and sticky, should i just replace them with the same thing or is there something better in the world of ergonomic fop charioting

Get new ergons.

How do I extract this bastard bolt? Vice grips are a no go.


Maybe cut it flush with the fender boss, drill it out and retap the threads? I’d probably permanently bork the brazeon or rip it clean off the fork.

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I’m assuming repeated bouts of Liquid Wrench did nothing? Probably not worth slotting it for a try with a flathead screwdriver? Get your biggest pliers, put on gloves, rock it tighter and looser?

Those are the steps I take with messes like that, sorta works sometimes

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Set the fork on an anvil (or moral equivalent) so the brazeon is supported, then whack the end of the bolt with a mallet, then see if the gentle vice grip of persuasion can rotate it?

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Try drilling from the backside, which will be turning in the direction of screwing it out the nearside. If possible immobilize the fork while doing this, and while you drill, have someone else also try to turn the nub with 6" Knipex cobra.

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Soak it in pb blaster. Wiggle it with vice grips. There’s enough sticking out to grab for sure.

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Say a prayer to Sheldon Brown, light some candles, and reef on it with vice grips.

Find good vice grips. Tight pivots. Parallel jaws. If there is play in them they are more likely to rock off. I might avoid depot for something this important. Some tools at depot look identical to something you get other places but costs a lot less. They force mfgrs to make tools at their prices and it can show up in the quality. Welding supply will have the best vice grips.

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Do I need to use a flex hone for seat tube gristle or can I use a brake hone I can find at the auto parts store?

i’m not sure, but i think the individually flexible dingleberries are an asset if you are not starting with a nicely bored hole that needs to be taken to the next level

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