you could back of the envelope it in terms of elevation gain.
A 300 watt-hour battery, with a bike and rider together weighing 100 kg, and assuming the motor+drivetrain is 70% efficient in converting electrical into mechanical energy, would be good for
300(Nmhr) / 100(kg) / 9.8(N/kg) * 3600 (secs/hr) * 0.7 ~~ 771 meters of elevation gain
I also think you’d want mid drive if you’re doing steep terrain, so you can keep the motor in the best rpm range for efficiency
Maybe just don’t brake using that one spot on the rim
Can’t, don’t want to…
i did this with a 2004-ish specialized bighit and i miss it all the time. will do it again some time in the future.
ill see if i can find pics.
edit:
drop bars were temporary, swapped them out for some 800mm shits shortly after this pic was taken.
spare saddle?!
I would think that a DH bike might have trouble getting a full enough seatpost extension to pedal at all, even assisted. A lot of them also put the saddle in a position that just isn’t designed to sit in. Those bikes are also really, really short in the TT and are not very slack at all, so they might end up feeling sketchier than a modern trail bike on even moderately steep stuff, even if the suspension travel lets them tackle rougher stuff. The geo issues might not be a big deal, though.
You might want to look into some of the bikes sold back then as freeride bikes, since a lot of those were made to do at least a cursory amount of pedaling and some even could fit front derailleurs. You’re more likely to end up with a bike that can at least fit enough seatpost to pedal at something close to a comfortable extension. Maybe you could even fit a dropper.
just in case.
Pubes is wild, love to see it.
My only input on this is to think hard about battery mounting. I got a 19.2ah battery and it is much bigger and heavier than I anticipated. Now it’s definitely a huge battery but for what you are proposing I think a big battery would be swell but mounting it somewhere stable might be difficult.
Same frame & fork, different wheels - 700c low-trail is just like 650b low-trail just less low-trailey right?
what tire widths? with narrower tires @ same outside diameter (like going from 650Bx57 to 700Cx38) you will have the same mechanical trail but less “pneumatic trail” so might feel a bit twitchier.
Is pneumatic trail essentially how the contact patch of the tire moves off axis of the wheel/rim as it flexes more than the rim? I’ve always seen it this way in my brain, but never actually bothered to confirm.
Basically. I kinda visualize a knobby tire with the knobs flexing this way or that as they roll under the contact patch, pneumatic trail results from the total of all the knobs flexing.
this happens two ways – If there’s a steering angle, the knobs hit the front of the contact patch straight on and are then pushed more and more to one side, so the reaction force comes more from the back half of the contact patch
meanwhile, if there’s a lean, the knobs at the outside of the contact patch are on a bigger diameter and “want” to go faster then the knobs on the inside, so the inside knobs are pushed forward while the outside knobs are pushed back and that results in steering torque
(talking about knobs just for visualization; these forces would actually be stronger with slick tread)
Ok but what makes the brilliant schralpf noise when I bounce my knobs off a berm going mach 5? Is this the noise Jan wants to cancel? Shame!!
Do we still have beef with castelli?
What was the beef?
They’re still sizing things two sizes off most other brands, but besides that I’m not mad at them
oh we had beef
I remember it was ~2010
It’s what’s for dinner
Way before my time! Uh, bad custom order? Corny fixie tie ins (or was that Cinelli)?
