Allen socket is blown out.
Tires are 38mm Gravelking. Rims are HED tomcats came with 40mm Donnelly so shouldn’t be an issue. Tires are lightly used and appear to be seated well without any obvious tire irregularities.
sometimes you can hammer in a torx socket that barely doesn’t fit
I was just experiencing the same thing with 38mm GKs toward the end of my last ride, after letting air out for a rough section of road. front wheel felt very squirmy, and had a noticeable tendency to understeer.
I was for sure running below recommended pressure though, normally doing 45psi on the front wheel. in that case, I wondered if the tires just don’t handle too well outside of the middle/upper end of the pressure range. fighting against the rim turning laterally or something.
they are kind of stiff tires, no?
That would be amazing if all I needed to do was inflate the tires a little more to confirm and then chuck them (because fuck that).
edit yeah that was it. I’m surprised that 45 psi would do that, but like you said they’re pretty stiff. Instead of getting squirmy they got weird.
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Do you have a gig welder?
padding the wrong size allen/torx with aluminum foil is a favorite of mine
Sure dont
That is why I don’t like Schwalbe. For me, there is a very fine line between too hard and no sidewall support.
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Try the torx trick. If that doesn’t work I would use a dermal or a small hole saw and cut the flang off the Allen head. The remaining head will fit through the square hole.
Got any Topeak allen tools? They fit the snuggest for me. Might work if not too blown out.
Wera is where it’s at.
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Building this new things, has an IS42/IS52 headset. Using a Cane Creek 110 and the top bearing doesn’t sit as low as it should, which I presume is related to the fact that this frame came with a shitty headset one is expected to use and it was sized for that one.
Guessing it needs a reaming. Tool is $500 and would be a one-use item. Is this something I could expect a shop to do? Would any shop have the correct reamer? I’m guessing not.
It was the first gen SP thru axle models that failed. Reckon they all been weeded out of the pool by now. They sure “failed fast” .
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anyone fuck with shooting sealant in through an on removable presta valve? my syringe has a specific configuration for that but i’m not sure i’ve felt silly enough to try it before
IS42 is definitely one of the least likely reamers for a shop to have. That is odd that you’re having this issue though.
Reaming an IS headtube is more about removing paint over spray or irregular surfaces. Not really changing the depth of the bearing seat.
That being said, I’ve definitely seen some variance in bearing seat depth and some headtube and headsets are not compatible despite having the same bearing “standard”. Cane Creek’s IS stuff is a bit odd in my experience and I’ve seen issues like this before.
I almost exclusively use the tiny 2oz bottles of sealant for shooting it through the valve unless it is new tire setup. Just refill the tiny bottle and go through the valve.
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This is chinacarbon frame? Why not just use the top bearing it came with? It’s just a cartridge bearing, how shitty could it be?the bearing itself is just lower height than the CC one?
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I also use the 2oz bottles. Usually a little sealant dribbles down the side of the tire and I don’t get every last drop out of the bottle but it works fine.
with the core still in? sup’s new bike has non-removable cores. finish line is my go-to for tubes but i think it would probably end up sealing the valve
edit- i’m a big fan of the caffelatex syringe and if you’re using squeezy bottles at home it’s a worthwhile upgrade
I’m bad and wasteful in that I replace non-removable core tubes with removable ones and keep the nons as spares that never get used until I’m tired of them taking up space and they get donated.
Pumping air into the tube after saucing should get whatever sealant out of the valves in that case but yeah Finish Line is chunky and I’ve never tried that.
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