Nah. Axle wasn’t sticking past the dropout.
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There’s also some single speed chain tensioners that have a little tab sticking into the dropout. I use some redline jawns on all of my horizontally dropped qr axled bikes otherwise I can’t get through a single ride without the wheel moving.
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This might be the way. I’m building her up a literal Crosscheck soon but want to keep her rolling till then.
shimano qr with serrated faces?
check the locknuts, if they’re not knurly slippage might happen
if it’s just a campus bike, tighten the qr with a babby cheater bar or something
This is probably it.
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How do we feel about the Standert Kreissäge RS?
Ordered one yesterday with Ultegra and the Scope R4 wheels.
I like my current bike, an aluminum Condor, but tired of rim brakes and 9 year old carbon clinchers. Crappy combo while descending.
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Got a great deal on some brittle bling and couldn’t resist rolling the dice. I’m not able to get the crank all the way onto the spindle. I’m guessing that this is due to a mismatch of iso/JIS standards ? How does one determine what spindle length they need? Do I just get the same length in the ISO standard ?
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First of all don’t fucking tighten that down
Measure from the ST to the chainring to determine chainline
What frame is that?
What crank is that?
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I didn’t. I stopped when it snugged up and noticed that something was up.
Bottom bracket is Shimano so JIS standard.
Frame is a Surly LHT with English threaded shell.
Crankset is Kooka.
Certainly look cool for a gofast bike, folks seem to like Standerts.
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Doesn’t necessarily have to go all the way on, just needs to bottom out.
I looked a bit and it sounds like kooka is JIS so if you have a Shimano bb then you probably have the right taper.
Now to determine spindle length you will need to know your desired chainline. Assuming your rear spacing is 135 I guess a normal chainline would be like 47.5.
Do you know what to do with that number?
Is that tightened down partly with the bolt or just pushed on by hand? If it’s just pushed on by hand it looks fine to me. It will slide on a bit more when it’s tightened down, and you don’t want the inside face of the crank to bottom out on the round part of the spindle. You want a little bit of the taper showing after it’s tightened or else it’s not gonna be firmly held by the taper. Then again I haven’t worked on cranks in a million years.
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Pretty sure JIS is the more common standard, cuz Shimano, so you just have a longer spindle than needed but the arms will snug up a couple mm when you tighten everything down. Per Sheldon it’s not a big deal to mismatch tapers anyway.
Yeah I’m gonna disagree and say get the right thing to work them with the right thing
It’s a taper, “all the way on” isn’t a thing unless the BB has a locating stop, it just needs to be “enough” and that looks fine especially for 90s CNC efforts
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Diff tapers could mean reduced contact surface which could be bad but I have trouble believing kooka wasnt shimano compatible without doing any research
JIS and ISO are the same taper angle. You are unlikely to damage a crank by tightening the bolt down on the “wrong” taper (but you can by riding it).
The difference is the ISO tapers are “longer”, they taper down to a smaller square at the end. So:
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If you stick a JIS crank on an ISO spindle, the chances are high that the crank will either bottom out where the taper blends into the round spindle (which can damage the crank), or the crank bolt will bottom out on the end of the spindle sticking out of the crank rather than fully tightening the crank onto the spindle. Either way, the crank isn’t fully seated/tightened onto the tapers, which will wreck the crank in short order if you start riding it.
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If you stick an ISO crank on a JIS spindle, it’s going to seat further outboard than it would on a JIS spindle of the same width. The chainline will be way outboard, and in extreme cases the crank will have so little engagement with the spindle that it will get damaged when you ride on it.
big 
to all of this
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Everything I have read says that this crank is most likely JIS but the end of the JIS spindle is ~12.7mm and the end of the tapered recess on the crank is 12.1. Other sources seem to suggest that the ISO is closer to 12.5. So either way neither standard is going to bottom out. The bike came with a 122-123mm JIS spindle and an Andel forged aluminum triple. With the Kooka tightened down on it my chain line is way off. I can’t get the front derailleur to shift to the highest ring and there is at least 20mm of clearance between the arm and the stays. From everything I have read this sounds like what you would expect from an ISO crank on a JIS spindle. That being said the crank is anodized and the inside has worn away where the taper sits. It has never been mounted further onto the taper than the JIS spindle sits based on the wear pattern. So I’m left with an ISO standard being unlikely on this crankset vs a JIS standard where a 123mm spindle on a touring bike with mountain cranks is too far outboard. My chain line is off by at least 7mm. I have a hard time believing that a mountain triple on a touring frame would need a 109mm spindle. So I guess it might be best to get an iso standard in the 110s? 117 or 118.
…or just a too-long BB?
A bunch of Shimano triples (the ones right before they switched to Octalink) took 107mm BBs, so this isn’t impossible?
Kooka cranks showed up when Shimano moved to the lower profile cranks that generally took a 110 BB