Did you just ShartQ?

just mount it.

Iso/jis… It’s on there for now, but I need a proper bb.

yo, i might buy an old trek frame coz…idk…

do 47/57 caliper brakes reach 700c rims on an original 27" rim frame?

other DQ, is there a caliper brake that would reach a 650b rim…not sure i really gaf about that one but plz answer…

Stock bb would have been a JIS 122 or 126 but that’s for a 135 chainline and clearance for MTB chainstays. Since you’re going single ring you can run the ring on the outside and use the narrowest bottom bracket that lets everything clear. So I’d start with a 113 and see how that works out.

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Just install it already. Throw on the arms without tightening. Estimate chainline and if it looks good, torque it. White Industries would provide same advice if you called them

I had an old Raleigh frame that went from 27 to 700c with the tektros of that reach. Worked great. Could be different though. And the answer to the other question is they are those really cheap long arm calipers for “bmx”

Depends. I used the tektro long dong reach, >57 brakes to convert my wiefs bianchi to 700c from 27".

I’m pretty sure I used the tektros (559s?) for my Trek 310 → 700c.

What’s a good method for removing a rounded-out 5mm crank pinch bolt?
I tried attacking it with a Grabit, it wasn’t biting. Tried imperial + torx wrenches. Crank is a cheap Deore hollowtech thing, bolts recessed :frowning_face:

Drill baby drill

Did you already soak it in penetrating lube?

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Tighten down the opposite side, it’ll release some pressure from the stripped one

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follow up question: what do with two stripped bolts

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Drill. Lefty drill bits.

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Not yet, the bolt is lubed. I stripped it installing, misused a torque wrench :crying_cat_face:

I forgot about these

nice tip, thanks

Often yes. What model/year frame? Some vintage Trek catalogs list axle-brake hole measurement, but even that isn’t totally reliable. Best together the frame set in hand first and measure.

oh yeah, i just measured when i looked at it, seemed about 57mm from the brake hole to the bottom the rim so i think it will be ok…

it’s something like an '81 Trek 610, kinda hard to find in in my size (58-60cm), should be 73* head angle and 55mm rake (measured it roughly at that) and the chainstays should be 43.5cm but i forgot to measure those…
the thing has almost zero braze-ons so i’m gonna have to find bolt on cable clips for the brake cable and bolt on shifter lever clamp for the downtube…also bolt on der cable guide above the bottom bracket…

dithering infinity thread
:arrow_left: :arrow_up: :arrow_right::arrow_down: :left_right_arrow: :arrow_up_down: :twisted_rightwards_arrows: :arrows_clockwise: :leftwards_arrow_with_hook: :arrow_heading_down: :arrows_counterclockwise:
that way

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DQ: when shortening hoses on fully assembled and bled Shimano MTB brakes is there a recommendation for which side to detach and reinstall?
Kinda want to try that no bleed trick where you keep the hose pointed up to preserve the air-free system on one end.
I don’t think I could pull it off on the rear line since it has internal routing on the frame.
Tips?

You do the lever side but yeah it’ll be hard with internal routing. I believe in you.

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