Dynamo help

[quote=lofarkas][quote=joy of tarcking]yeah 3.0 is what i just got from starbike

maybe it’s better in the rain? ¯_(ツ)_/¯[/quote]
That’s the point of the redesign I think. Water could get into the button pod through the usb port in 1.0 and 2.0 (Mine got pretty wet inside in a 3-day downpour and the button malfunctioned for a while until it dried out.) In 3.0, they have a waterproof connection and the non-waterproof usb port dangles on a wire further away, so that you can stash it in your handlebar bag where it doesn’t get rained on. Or remove the usb and seal the connector with a cap.
It’s much less elegant than 2.0 though for sure.[/quote]
At least on mine, the new button wasn’t well sealed. I tugged the nub and the internal wire exposed themselves. I shoved it back in and added some caulk.

Also, the secula is full of holes if you don’t use fender. The back bolt has a big opening.

If you’re talking about your elephant, I would just tuck the thinner wire that comes with the light on the top tube cable guide. It’s just as clean and requires zero work.

Every time I think about upgrading to a Luxos, they change the design. I wonder what they’ll finally settle on - I think in general that button looks like it just causes problems. I’d almost be more into it if they ran that waterproof plug straight from the light. Then maybe just have a senso switch in the light that shuts off the headlight during the day if there’s a draw on the charging cable? And then automatically runs the headlight at night or if you switch the light to always on? Squirrel can probably correct me but that sounds doable and practical.

Yeah, you can pretty much design them to do anything.

BTW, I opened the packaging on mine last night and discovered I got the new 3.0 as well.
Took some close-up photos for those that haven’t seen it yet.



Comes with a cap if you don’t have the USB dongle plugged in:

[quote=buffoon][quote=lofarkas][quote=joy of tarcking]yeah 3.0 is what i just got from starbike

maybe it’s better in the rain? ¯_(ツ)_/¯[/quote]
That’s the point of the redesign I think. Water could get into the button pod through the usb port in 1.0 and 2.0 (Mine got pretty wet inside in a 3-day downpour and the button malfunctioned for a while until it dried out.) In 3.0, they have a waterproof connection and the non-waterproof usb port dangles on a wire further away, so that you can stash it in your handlebar bag where it doesn’t get rained on. Or remove the usb and seal the connector with a cap.
It’s much less elegant than 2.0 though for sure.[/quote]
At least on mine, the new button wasn’t well sealed. I tugged the nub and the internal wire exposed themselves. I shoved it back in and added some caulk.
[/quote]
That sounds like a manufacturing fuckup. Regardless, spotty QC doesn’t mean the redesign wasn’t about making it more waterproof.

[quote=buffoon]
If you’re talking about your elephant, I would just tuck the thinner wire that comes with the light on the top tube cable guide. It’s just as clean and requires zero work.[/quote]

I don’t have an Elephant. This is for a frame I’m building. The DI2 ports look like they’re 6mm, which seems big on a fork.

If you are doing a rando/porteur rack on the fork with lamp hanging off rack I would either suggest:

  • 3 holes up the fork blade at tip, mid-fork (at rack boss) & crown (assuming you are doing tailight wiring as well)
    or
  • external wiring with guides up the blade.

If you are doing headlight mount on the fork crown I would suggest:

  • 2 holes up the blade at fork tip and crown.

Are you doing taillight wiring as well?

Grommets aren’t really necessary. Glen brazed a rounded washer on the hole at the fork tip. It’s a pretty mammoth hole.

Rando rack but most likely it will mount to the canti bosses. Yes on taillight, though it will probably go somewhere high on the bike since it won’t be fendered most of the time.

I’m definitely going internal. I’d also like to route my computer wire inside the fork too. I’ll probably just do a little washer or if the weather continues to suck turn some little ports on the lathe.

Though now that we’re in the age of electrified velocipedes it seems like there should be some good grommets to take advantage of, or a PNW randobro with enough OCD to go through the Digikey catalog.

There’s also the “fine line between clever and stupid” idea of powering the tail light by using the rear brake cable housing to carry current with the frame as the ground.

I did this on my Elephant

The angled Di2 grommets are great, but the ID is a bit too tight for the Schmidt coax, I had to hog it out with a torch-heated drill bit

That’s a novel idea.

TBH, now having a bike with internal fork wiring I think the whole idea is kinda goofy unless you go full nerd and have the wireless Schmidt SL SONdelux & internally wired rando rack.
My preferred method given all the options would be something like this:

[quote=Andrew_Squirrel]
TBH, now having a bike with internal fork wiring I think the whole idea is kinda goofy unless you go full nerd and have the wireless Schmidt SL SONdelux & internally wired rando rack.[/quote]

True, it’s kind of a short distance. But you’d keep the tail light internal?

tail light really needs to be internal or otherwise captured

heatshrinking it to a full housing run is an exceptionally good alternative

I really want a better taillight solution than zip ties and electrical tape, but that has worked pretty much perfectly so I can’t really get into internal routing just yet.

Tucking it between the triple full housing run has worked really well for me. Never get sagged on anything. No extra zip ties and minimal mess.

dynamo wiring & full cable runs are best friends. Definitely the most elegant & simple solution if they both follow the same path.

I’ve had good luck with hot glue after it leaves an adjacent cable. Just glue it to an inconspicuous side of the tube.

QFT, worked just perfect for me

Ran with the housing until the fender, then ran inside the fender edge

Checked my luxo u
Am group 3rd gen

How about going in a hole under the downtube like usual, but then up through the vent holes into the head tube then back down the top tube, where it will exit near the rearwards brake cable housing stop?