Fuck just tell me (in English) which one to buy for supwife’s commuter. I got the Luxos U on my touring machine and it’s rad but spendy. I’m building up an economy dynamo wheel for her with a Shimano hub. Needs standlight, does not need remote switch or USB outlet. Burlier is better. Cheaper is better. Needs to be good enough to be her only front light.
If you need one right now “Cyo N plus without reflector” (175QNDi)
If you can wait a little bit (the germans say November) get the “Cyo Premium Senso Plus” (1752QSNDI-04) for $20 more
most important part of supwife commuter dynamo lighting is regularly checking to make sure it isn’t aimed all fucked up
I’m amazed the market can support 14 different models in any sort of mass production business model. I guess many of those models share many components and they just mix and match.
germany, bro. it’s germany.
If you need one right now “Cyo N plus without reflector” (175QNDi)
If you can wait a little bit (the germans say November) get the “Cyo Premium Senso Plus” (1752QSNDI-04) for $20 more
most important part of supwife commuter dynamo lighting is regularly checking to make sure it isn’t aimed all fucked up[/quote]
At half the price, the Lyt may be worth considering. For fairly fast riding she will out-run it, but if she’s not Cat6-ing it up all night, she’ll be fine.
I don’t mind it at all for most city riding, but there are one or two spots where stadium lights kill my night vision just before I enter a shaded area of MUP at 15+mph that I wish I had more firepower. (to give you some idea of what I mean). On a really darkened street it’s not hard to outrun it on a fast downhill. Knowing how my wife rides and how much(little) she likes to budget on her bike, I would have no hesitation about buying a Lyt for her.
As for robustness, I would consider one of two strategies:
- Make the light’s mounting bracket in such a way that if the light gets knocked around (bike rack parking, etc.) that the bracket moves or light rotates, rather than busting the actual light housing.
- Mount the light in a protected location so that it is less likely to get knocked around.
That’s a great mount.
Also:

That little light might be just the ticket on the Paramount. Hmmmm
Thanks bros. Might wait for the Cyo Primo and loan supwife my light in the interim.
Talked to her on the phone and said I made her a present (cookies). She asked if it was a dynamo wheel. 
that eyc. whadda cutie. want to run a pair of them like eyes.
the phillips battery light is on super-sale again:
battery life is only 2h on high, but the high setting is also absurd overkill in most cases
Fred hows the battery life on low? Did you ever see a randonneur run out before morning?
Haven’t seen any randos use it, but it’s around 8h
The trick with this light is that you can just swap a backup set of AAs into it, use Eneloops and you can just keep them in your kit all the time
How much does it weigh including a spare set of AAs?
Item weight reads 1.4 lbs on Amazon
4 rechargeable batteries usually weigh 0.275 lbs (source: wikipedia)
The Amazon weight might be the shipping weight, which would include the packaging. bike24 claims it’s ~320 grams, which if true would put the light + batteries + spares @ ~570 grams, or a bit more than the weight of a PV-8 + a Cyo.
It is cheaper, though, and easier to move from bicycle to bicycle.
Break out the scales…
308g with batteries and without mount.
1x AA battery: 24g
Oh, that’s nice; the 320g that bike24 reported must have been with batteries. That puts it 50gm less than a PV8+Cyo. Not bad for 80 arbitrary light units.
I almost never run mine on high, low is still awesome.
That’s interesting; on the battery side, add on a non dynamo hub—say an 80 gram weight weenie one like the circus monkey—and suddenly battery lights aren’t looking like such a lightweight option. I just assumed going with batteries and a high powered light like the B+M, etc meant lighter weight overall and i see that that’s not necessarily so. 8 AAs weigh a lot i suppose.

