Early 90s Cannondale--thoughts?

So I’ve been road bike-less for the past couple of years and thanks to a triathlon I’m doing on Saturday I’ve been borrowing my uncle’s road bike for the past two months. Needless to say, I’m kind of addicted to it (something about being able to ride up and down the Blue Ridge Parkway on a regular basis). And thanks to a sweet rent situation I finally have enough moolah to buy another bike.

Right now I have the option to get an early 90s Cannondale (1992 is the best guess I have), but most of the reviews I read after a quick Google search said it was a great bike for shorter rides, but not for longer ones. I have a carbon fork and seat post, and I’m going to check to see if they fit which would help with shock absorption and all that jazz, but does anyone have any thoughts on the frame? Good, bad, meh?

And what would you pay for it? The guy who’s selling it is being waaaay overly sentimental about it (it was his brother’s) and asking $295 or something like that for the frame + original parts. I know that’s too much (especially since I’ll be building it up with my own parts from my deceased road bike), but if I decide to go for it, what would you offer?

$295 for a cannondale track?

buy it now

[quote=klondikebear]$295 for a cannondale track?

buy it now[/quote]

not a track, from what i can tell…

anyway, people seem to be all about old-ass cannondales. i don’t get the hype at all.

then again, saying it’s a “cannondale road bike” is not helpful, cuz lots of different road bikes.

Early 90’s Cannondale = yes

triathalon
:frowning:
banable offense

$300 for a frame and some parts?

No.

I’d pay $150. I got my SR900 with DA for $160, but it had no bars or saddle and needed a good deep cleaning.

is this a good thread for me to ask what the hell the appeal of these frames is?

I have the same question. I’ve never ridden one though.

is this a good thread for me to ask what the hell the appeal of these frames is?[/quote]
owning one, i too often ask this. it’s often referred to as the definitive aluminum frame of the time, from the definitive maker, at their, arguable, epoch. as litespeed was to ti, look to carbon (at the time), etc. i will say, in terms of absolute stiffness and weight, it still holds up admirably. claimed weight of under 2.8 lbs, burly ass oversized aluminum tubes in a time of either porky steel or noodly aluminum.

is this a good thread for me to ask what the hell the appeal of these frames is?[/quote]

Have you ridden one?

I can’t speak for road, but the early 90’s track is a damn fun machine. I’d mostly relate it to that high ass bottom bracket.

ridden one for a mile or two. i was nonplussed. then again, give me noodlin’ and squiggly soft over as-stiff-as-possible any day of the week*

*also: most of the people who like these cannondales do not differentiate between an originaly RSX-equipped bike and a dura-ace one. i guess it makes sense, in the same way that a fucking bridgestone MB-6 has its value inflated cuz grant peterson hype.

[quote=toastycat]ridden one for a mile or two. i was nonplussed. then again, give me noodlin’ and squiggly soft over as-stiff-as-possible any day of the week*

*also: most of the people who like these cannondales do not differentiate between an originaly RSX-equipped bike and a dura-ace one. i guess it makes sense, in the same way that a fucking bridgestone MB-6 has its value inflated cuz grant peterson hype.[/quote]
although, top to bottom, all 2.8 series frames are the same, and all 3.0 the same, barring some being spaced for 7 or 8 speed and the crit geo bikes. besides the weight, i’m not exactly sure the difference between the 2.8 and 3.0.

If the money is there and it fits well, $300 isn’t too much for a bike you like. You could probably get an equal quality frame/bike for less though, if you wanted to spend more time looking.

Make sure it is clean and take it to a shop and all that to make sure the frame is sound. Cracks are easily hidden by dirt.

Glad you have the money to finally get a road bike again. We’ll do some sweet rides when I come up in June.

Cdale laser machines their tubes making the joints of the frame very precise and I believe this technology is patented. Also their welding is beautiful but this is obvious.

The bike is from a community-based bike shop here called Sharebike & the bike was the guy’s brother’s, so I know it’s been taken care of–no cracks & suspicious looking bubbles in the frame. I guess my question was mainly regarding the stiffness of the frame and how that would work out for long rides (when coupled with a carbon fork/seat post). I’m going to make sure my fork & seat post fit & then offer him $200. I’m not willing to go for $300, but if I can get it less than that, then I’m game. If I do get it, I’ll have to spend the time switching out newer components for the older stuff (which are in good shape, but shifters on the the bar ends is a pain in the a#$). Anyway, wish me luck. It’s a steal to find a frame in my size (which, by the way, is originally purple–hell yes)!

And yes, Kyle, we’re going to do awesome rides in June–plus we’re planning a several day tour down the C&O Canal towpath during the time you might be here–Cumberland, Maryland to Washington DC–hell yes!

oh hai

[quote=spaghetti]triathalon
:frowning:
banable offense[/quote]

Don’t hate just 'cause I’m athletic :wink:

[quote=rabbi]oh hai

[/quote]

Nice! I was referring to shifters on the drop ends, though. Those are waaay more manageable.

I actually didn’t read the thread. I just posted a picture of my bike that I just finished.

I like the ride, I like the stiff, I like the climbing, I love the look. I’d honestly have to say the old 3.0-2.8 is my favorite bike ever. I’d always be up for owning another vintage Cannondale. I really wish the dropouts were easy to respace though. If they were, I never would have looked for anything else for the current 10s build. I really want an old light blue 17" M frame for the Xtracycle as well.