[quote=JUGE FREDD]
The seattube in the kit is oversized, it’s a sign that you should build an 8/5/8 OS yolo frame for the longest dropper post you can get away with. Like make the tube just long enough to fit a waterbottle on it in the frame and successfully route the actuator cable out of it.[/quote]
Argh, I’m obsessed with putting a dropper on the next yoloframe. It makes almost no sense in the corn belt, and the one event I was justifying it for got cancelled so it’s even more pointless. Talk me out of it, or convince me I need it.
[quote=drwelby][quote=JUGE FREDD]
The seattube in the kit is oversized, it’s a sign that you should build an 8/5/8 OS yolo frame for the longest dropper post you can get away with. Like make the tube just long enough to fit a waterbottle on it in the frame and successfully route the actuator cable out of it.[/quote]
Argh, I’m obsessed with putting a dropper on the next yoloframe. It makes almost no sense in the corn belt, and the one event I was justifying it for got cancelled so it’s even more pointless. Talk me out of it, or convince me I need it.[/quote]
Do it. You should have at least one bike with a derper.
[quote=drwelby][quote=JUGE FREDD]
The seattube in the kit is oversized, it’s a sign that you should build an 8/5/8 OS yolo frame for the longest dropper post you can get away with. Like make the tube just long enough to fit a waterbottle on it in the frame and successfully route the actuator cable out of it.[/quote]
Argh, I’m obsessed with putting a dropper on the next yoloframe. It makes almost no sense in the corn belt, and the one event I was justifying it for got cancelled so it’s even more pointless. Talk me out of it, or convince me I need it.[/quote]
it’s worth it for the aero tucks alone
riding home from the ride on my MTB I use it constantly to rest / fuck around
PVD had some interesting ideas about how droppers were changing bike fit - he could run his bars in a lower attack position that would be have been too sketchy with a fixed seatpost. I’m interested in this since 95% of the time I want to be aero, especially when the wind is blowing down out of Wyoming, but for the 5% of b-roads and washouts have an insurance plan. Plus I love the idea of hijacking a left Sram shifter for the lever.
Probably a good idea from the standpoint of newb technique and yolo application. For $9 you could just buy a 37mm head tube and streamline everything.[/quote]
You rock. Thanks! 37/1.6 head tube it is.
Yamaguchi harped on this a lot. He made us shine a flashlight on the other side of the miter and look to see if any light got through. If any did, we weren’t done.
Yamaguchi harped on this a lot. He made us shine a flashlight on the other side of the miter and look to see if any light got through. If any did, we weren’t done.[/quote]
I want to get a 28.6 seat tube instead of using the 31.7 with a shim. How short can I cut this?
LIFE OVER SIZED ROAD SEAT TUBE
Dia x Wall W1/W2/W3xL = 28.6mm x 0.75/0.4/0.6mm x 560mm
Butts: B1/B2 = 130/160
What’s the minimum you would leave for the top and BB butt?
Google tells me ~80 or so for the bottom. The top will be reinforced with a sleeve but what is needed to provide proper seatpost support?
[quote=buffoon]I want to get a 28.6 seat tube instead of using the 31.7 with a shim. How short can I cut this?
LIFE OVER SIZED ROAD SEAT TUBE
Dia x Wall W1/W2/W3xL = 28.6mm x 0.75/0.4/0.6mm x 560mm
Butts: B1/B2 = 130/160
What’s the minimum you would leave for the top and BB butt?
Google tells me ~80 or so for the bottom. The top will be reinforced with a sleeve but what is needed to provide proper seatpost support?[/quote]
I would use a single butt seat tube 8/6 or 9/6. more noob friendly with with 0.8 or 0.9 at the bb and you can cut as much off the 0.6 end as you want (make sure you put it on right way around).
I’ve never messed with weenie triple butted seat tubes.
and adding a downtube shifter to replace it coz fuck 1x road is me[/quote]
I spent a long time day dreaming about a bike I want to build like that today.
One of the bikes we sell has 63mm rake carbon fork for flat mount/12mm with 385 a-c. As best as I can measure it will fit a 650bx42 with a few mm to spare. I wanna stick that on a frame kinda like a coffee grinder but more specific to 650x42 and mod the fork for mid blade rack mount.
[quote=akasnowmaaan]As far as managing heat with the bronze, Yamaguchi had us spend the better part of a week building ‘bronze towers’.
Basically, literally see how tall you could stack a bead of bronze. The trick was to get it to be taller, thicker, and more stable each time. He’d also wait until they were cool then whack them on the table to see how strong they were, to see if we kept the temperature consistent so it set as one separate piece without any weak transition points.
This was the total Karate Kid ‘wax on wax off’ thing. After building a few dozen of those towers, I had a much better sense of how the bronze would look when it was just right. Too hot, the bronze flowed like water down and the tower fell apart as you tried to add more. Too cool, the new bronze wouldn’t stick and it would break off at that point. I got to where I just ‘felt’ the right temperature, and I could just pile on the bronze in a relatively thick bead straight up that cooled to be rock solid.
If you haven’t done this, you might want to try it. After 20-30 hours my confidence with the bronze increased immensely, and I didn’t stress about the temps so much.[/quote]I got a plate of 4130 and made a big garden of towers. Spent my evenings for ~2 weeks doing this. I built a few before my most recent bike just to get back into the swing of it.
[quote=akasnowmaaan]As far as managing heat with the bronze, Yamaguchi had us spend the better part of a week building ‘bronze towers’.
Basically, literally see how tall you could stack a bead of bronze. The trick was to get it to be taller, thicker, and more stable each time. He’d also wait until they were cool then whack them on the table to see how strong they were, to see if we kept the temperature consistent so it set as one separate piece without any weak transition points.
This was the total Karate Kid ‘wax on wax off’ thing. After building a few dozen of those towers, I had a much better sense of how the bronze would look when it was just right. Too hot, the bronze flowed like water down and the tower fell apart as you tried to add more. Too cool, the new bronze wouldn’t stick and it would break off at that point. I got to where I just ‘felt’ the right temperature, and I could just pile on the bronze in a relatively thick bead straight up that cooled to be rock solid.
If you haven’t done this, you might want to try it. After 20-30 hours my confidence with the bronze increased immensely, and I didn’t stress about the temps so much.[/quote]
