Framebuildin' part 3


[quote=rauce][quote=buffoon]I want to get a 28.6 seat tube instead of using the 31.7 with a shim. How short can I cut this?

Dia x Wall W1/W2/W3xL = 28.6mm x 0.75/0.4/0.6mm x 560mm
Butts: B1/B2 = 130/160

What’s the minimum you would leave for the top and BB butt?
Google tells me ~80 or so for the bottom. The top will be reinforced with a sleeve but what is needed to provide proper seatpost support?[/quote]

I would use a single butt seat tube 8/6 or 9/6. more noob friendly with with 0.8 or 0.9 at the bb and you can cut as much off the 0.6 end as you want (make sure you put it on right way around).

I’ve never messed with weenie triple butted seat tubes.[/quote]

This, plus the reason it’s thin wall is that Life tubing is their high strength alloy (same idea as OX Plat and 853). It will be harder to miter, harder to ream, and being thinner harder to control your heat. For a first bike it’s not worth the frustration.

An externally butted seat tube would saves you from doing the seat tube sleeve, if you really want to simplify things.


Thank you for talking sense to me and keeping me from making stupid decisions. I really appreciate it.

I am going to use the 31.7 0.8/0.6 from the kit. I also ordered two more lbs of filler for practicing.




I only just clued in to it.

I’ll PM you cuz trying to keep new jerb separate from interwebs.



It’s tapered FYI so not a drop in fit on most fop chariots


i want more info on that fork
I think it would change my geometry too much on my green machine but maybe for a future bike


my dude
can you at least talk in code about the fork


When did we start allowing “fork” again?


Cherzelo See series bikes, the 62mm rake is on the small frames.

Made for 700x32 but 650bx42 should clear, 650bx38 for sure.

Has a bonded rivet behind the crown for fender and weirdo eyelets at the dropout like trek etc.

Cheaper of the two forks retails for half a bong, replacements come uncut so could be used on a larger frame


If anybody wonders the complete bike is not suitable for 650 conversion due to chainstay shape. Nor is it low trail cause sllllaaaccckkk as fuck.


what the a-c? ~396?


I measured best I could, somewhere in the 385-390 range.


I pulled the old front end off of #9 bad acid and put on a new one in partybike mode. Stiffer, longer, slacker, plus designed around a suspension fork instead of rigid. It’s mostly just a fast way to test some geometry before I commit to a plus bike and the design work centered around the chainstays.


I want to build a plus bike but I don’t want to do the math.


50% serious: rip off the Advocate Hayduke. That seems to have a lot of great buzz right now.

Or, Kona Wozo. That thing rips.


I have two friends with Haydukes, and they both love them FWIW.


guys, I havent built a frame in over a year

any of you goons interested in an anvil frame & fork jig?

I don’t want to NOT build some bikes, but it’s just not fitting in right now :frowning:


If I wasn’t already 80% done my home brew fork jig I’d be all over that.

What would you be asking?


idk? maybe 650 cad?