Or get that last binder and expand the 25.4 side to 28.6?
That’s weird, the actual web site text is different from the preview. The web site doesn’t mention the 25.4 part.
Wait, I’ve got a handful of them floating around in my bike mess… Nope, 31.7 all around, but that can be dealt with by a few strokes of a curved file, no? The part that’s going to lose the most material when it’s reshaped is also the part that will be cut out when the binder is split.
The preview description is the bottom boss that has two straight miters on it. The one in the web site text and photo is different - it’s been turned on a lathe.
The one above it is also 25.4 but pre-slotted. I’m not sure where it’s from though.
The cast ones at top are really nice and brass would fill the gap, or you could file it a little as already mentioned.
Nova has a couple that are unmitered.
This is my thought as well. I can split the difference by removing material that’s gonna be split anyway and do a bit of brass filler on the ends.
I think that middle one is this one.
https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/SEAT-BINDER-AND-BOLT-PREMITERED.html
Yeah, sure looks like it.
Oh boy, here we go. Getting a few stems worth of binders, a few hydro guides, and an iso disc rear mount.
tl;dw, there’s this stuff called Deoxit, posting in this thread because it seems like it might might be more advanced than what’s in JP weigle framesaver. Dude in the vid does some testing and tries to homebrew his own.
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and I felt janky when I carved a block of wood and used a bench vice to dimple some chainstays like 8 years ago.
I use carved wood and a vise.
DQ how much should it cost to have FD cable routing added + some chainstay crimping?
not including paint
thinkin’ about committing to the final evolution of my Trek Steel District Townie Turned 650B Dirt Road Rando Bike
A six-pack and drive to up to Windsor?
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ooh I’m a sucker for a good tarckup
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Experience with ovalized steerers? Difficult (but not impossible) to insert stem into bstone xo2 fork. I’m gonna pull it out and see if it’s measurable later but just wondering what folks think
Any gunk built up in there?
Did the fork get dropped, putting a ding on the very top edge of the steerer? I’ve seen that, but never a completely ovalized steerer.
my so bought it about a year ago. Doing the second handlebar swap now and realizing it could be a real issue, not feeling great about that not clicking until now…
Will inspect further and report back
Removed fork, saw that steerer id actually was pretty gunky so I cleaned thoroughly. Stem still encounterEd resistance just after the wedge. I’ve tried a few stems I have laying around and a brand new one, all very tight.
Calipers show the od to be oval by about .5-.75mm (dead digital calipers, so pretty approximate) just below the threading with major diameter along direction of stem wedge. The threaded area measures pretty close to the rest of the steerer and does not appear to be an oval
There is also some weird pitting right below the threads that’s freaking me out even more, maybe just tooling marks? (I measured below the pitting in a smooth area)
Is it dead? Smoosh it back to round? Have a framebuilder splice a new upper piece in?