And here I was all proud that I was able to figure out how to get the pusher working on my Endpoint.
Nice!
Splicing solid core to twisted wires can be iffy though
Honestly I can barely tune a rear derailleur. This is way easier than learning the nuances involved in normal shifting and brake tuning.
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Did you test the function of the system with the wire extension before you cabled the frame? From memory di2 is very picky about wire type, sometimes a straight up splice can wreak havoc with operation/battery drain etc.
This is very cool, can’t wait to see finished product.
Di2 scares me
(also excites me)
I didn’t mainly because the only required splice was the one from the shifter through the top tube which meant needing to be spliced before testing. Everything else could have been accomplished with a longer stock etube wire. Even the shifter could technically reach the junction box with use of the ew-jc200 but I didn’t want to do that. In the end if I need to I can buy a couple lengths of 1100mm wire and have it all sorted but I’m pretty sure it’ll all work out.
I might actually end up buying the bluetooth adapter and stuffing it inside the seat tube or also gluing it to the saddle. Just so I can have a monitor on my phone when needed. I don’t like having a closed loop system.
Cause, even though I can’t tune a derailleur very well, it’s nice to pull a cable and see what happens. You can’t do that with di2. If it aint working you’re kinda shit out of luck.
Awesome! Thanks for reviving this thread.
RE: controller buttons assembly. I agree with Russ, that is probably poka-yoke.
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Originally my only doubt would be that they are hand assembled but then I realized 20 years ago was a different age in manufacturing so they probably were hand assembled in the last few steps. Also even now that poka-yoke could potentially allow an automated system to sort them based on that registration. So either way same thing.
I’ve been thinking about doing just that for a long time…and I have all the parts sitting at the shop.
Damn it.
I’m super into that. Nice work.
HY
I’m a fan of those Axiom seatpost clamps, using one on my steerer for a decaleur.
I’m marginally concerned because I had to stretch the clamp a little to get it onto the seat tube (thread the screw backwards and put a penny in the clamp to push the screw against). Everything says it’s the right size for a 27.2 post (28.6 clamp on a steel frame). Is this a common thing or is the clamp just wrong?
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Any external butt on the ST you can see? Thick paint?
Of course, I say I’m a fan of those clamps, while conveniently forgetting that I had to use a Dremel™ to grind down the lip on the thing so it would slide down the steerer.
Thick paint could be a thing. Tube thickness isn’t abnormal. I tried to get the old clamp back on and it still took a little forcing. I’m not too worried, but I plan to keep an eye on it.
Externally butted seat tubes are usually around 29.8mm, then bump that up for paint.
I may look for a different seat collar then. 28.6 was what the internet said.
Edit: just ordered the sunlight rack mount clamp in 29.8. An extra $12 isn’t too big of a deal.
id day that if you didn’t, it would make a pretty crummy seat collar, no?
True.
I think I just forgot about the fact that it’s a collar and not just something you clamp on to a chairpole. So, excited remembering about it, then disappointed by actual reality. Having a whole range of emotions over here.
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